New brake booster won't bolt back in - '66 dual master conversion

[TJThunder66]

So, I had the dreaded failure of the single master and luckily the car did not hit anything by the time I got it to stop. Since then, it's been in the garage sitting. I opted to move to the dual master, but upon purchasing the dual master, found it was not clearing the strut brace because the stock 10" midland booster is just too big. So, I decided to go with the shorter Bendix style 6.5" from PartsGeek.com:

1966 Ford Thunderbird Centric Brake Booster
Centric 160.80055

I got the old booster out today (what a PITA). I did not disconnect the bracket from the firewall, simply took off the 4 bolts, pulled the pin, and out it came. Next, I start putting the new one in, only to find that rod section on the back end of the new booster is not clearing the brackets, so I can't bolt it back in. The center part where the rubber cover is, seems to be too wide to fit in between the brackets. I managed to either get the top & bottom right bolted, but the left side end up too far off, or I get just the tops bolted on and the bottoms are off. I'm worried about snapping the bolts trying to bend it all into fitting.

What am I missing... it isn't supposed to be this hard?!

Should I just start over, and disconnect the bracket from the firewall, put it all back together and then try to bolt it back up to the firewall? Kinda lost, and extremely annoyed at my own ignorance here.

Thanks for any help.

'66 Flair Bird btw.

 

[sseebart]

Should I just start over, and disconnect the bracket from the firewall, put it all back together and then try to bolt it back up to the firewall?

I am still amazed at how little room there is to work with on these big cars.

Pulling the bracket is certainly worth a try. With aftermarket parts, though, I would start with a call to the manufacturer. It's not uncommon for something like this to require some modification or fabrication to fit right. If so, the seller ought to know the right course of action. When I've been in a situation like this, I've sometimes gotten permission to modify the new part (headers, in my case) with the guarantee that they'll still take it back if just won't work.

~Steve

 

[HeadacheGuy]

I forgot which way I went but i went to the other style booster only because that is what I was sent. I pulled the bracket. Yeah it sucks (and I do this for a living). I think either the ears or the studs are bent from previous installation and it is easier with the bracket on a bench as you may need to bend them. It will fit but don't be surprised if the brakes feel a little different. Mine got just a little bit harder. I am pretty sure my booster studs were spread a bit but get the bracket out.

 

[makrie]

How does the original stud spacing compare to the replacement? If the original was wider as the bracket appears you're going to have to modify the bracket or locate a booster with the same configuration. However if the measurements on the boosters are the same the bracket must have sprung. As HeadacheGuy suggests it'll be easier to correct off the car.

 

[TJThunder66]

See the photo for how it is hitting on the sides. I took the bracket off the firewall and got it to line up on all bolts, but am only able to bolt down 2 of the threads. the cylinder that comes up the middle of the bracket, off the back of the booster is too fat.... Not sure what else I can do besides get another new booster from a different company. The midland booster that came out has a considerably thinner cylinder coming out of the back end...

:banghead