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Ed: My 1966 indicates the colors for the turn signal switch (page 22-2) except for the horn button. The wires to the horn button are one yellow and one yellow with green stripe. They are located at the end positions in the chassis to t.s. switch plug at the bottom of the steering column. The...

I don't know why you could not cut your panel to fit the switch panel, but if you choose not to, you might find another correct trim panel from John Draxler's Thunderbird Ranch.

The brake light switch is a pressure switch. Enough force has to be applied to the brake pedal to build up sufficient pressure to close the contacts in the switch.

I don't think there is any adjustment. You may need a new brake light switch.

I'm thinking you should use Type F atf. Don't know anything about Amsoil. "Exposed to air after 50 years"? If you only change the oil, does this question apply? I guess I don't understand.. How much atf? Are you going to drain the torque converter? If so, you may need 11 quarts. If not 5...

I usually use the top pump with the cylinders disconnected. Cycle the pistons in and out while making sure there is fluid in the system As air is pumped out, you will need to replenish the fluid.

I use a universal (flexible) socket and 8" extension and ratchet.l The nuts are 9/16".

You are shown as a friend on "tbirdforum", but I haven't heard anything from you lately. Last I recall was a problem with a fan switch. Is that right? Can I help you?

65flarerat: I'[ve got your shop manual. See your messages.

I'll sell you a new 1965 T-Bird shop manual for $ 35.00 shipping included. Harley Eaton [email protected]

Are you interested in joining the North Texas Vintage Thunderbird club. You have a Thunderbird. Our next meeting will be Dec.11th at Homperdincks in Arlington. If you would like more information about the club, call Dan Bishop, our president at 817-602-4562.

Good idea. Remember to look at the flexible joint between the gearbox and the steering shaft. The one under the brake booster.

A bad idler arm bushing will cause the problem you describe. ave you checked your steering components under the car for looseness? I would start there. Do you have a shop manual? Have you consulted your shop manual?

The only answer I know is: leaking heater core. If your car has factory air, pulling the heater core is no big deal. If you have been restoring it, did you put in a new heater core? If all four screws holding the core in place are present, it's a harder job than it will be with only two...

I would remove the battery from the car and charge it. Then install and check for a battery drain. Yes, the alternator could be shot. Maybe the voltage regulator. Let you associate check it out!!

OK. Is the booster working? First (with engine off) release all the vacuum in the booster. Then hold your foot on the brake pedal while you start the engine. If you feel the pedal starting to fall to the floor, the booster is working. Second; the fuel gauge. Are the oil, temp gauges...

Isn't this information in your shop manual ?

First of all, you need to get a shop manual (which includes a wiring diagram). There are two wires in the steering column that go to the horn button. One supplies battery power, the other goes to the horns. If the dash lights come on when you press the horn button, it would seem the lights are...

Do you have a shop manual ?

Looking for a repair shop in the N. Atlanta area?? Have you moved to Atlanta??