Sounds great!...for a few seconds

[tbird5866]

Browser: According to Ford, the 353862-S is an "E" clip used two places. Onen the kick-down rod at the Accelerator and kick-down bracket (on the intake). Two: on the carburetor rod at the accelerator bracket (on the firewall). I would expect to buy these at the local auto parts store. However, I do have one I can send if I have your mailing address. ([email protected])

 

[boaterbob]

Aluminium should be a better condutor than cast, so i doubt thats it. I guess trace your steps on everything you touched, Maybe you even knocked a wire loose. Double check your timing etc. Good luck keep us posted.

 

[Joe Vandatta]

won't run

Did you get her to run yet?

 

[Joe Vandatta]

Hey Brian, did you ever get it to run?

 

[bowserhound]

Still trying to time the darn thing. No points, no condenser, Crane Cams ignition box (never used before). Finding TDC and crossing fingers.

 

[SCUMDOG]

Still trying to time the darn thing. No points, no condenser, Crane Cams ignition box (never used before). Finding TDC and crossing fingers.

Make sure you're not a 180 degrees out when checking your bottom pulley for the timing mark, easily done!! (and you end up actually at BDC instead of TDC!)

 

[bowserhound]

Yeah, I found that out the hard way Scumdog. My pulley is old enough not to have any visable timing marks, so it's just making things more interesting.

I pulled the #1 plug and had that at TDC (or so I thought). I'm going to crank the pulley until the rotar is facing the #1 plug wire on the distributor and cross my fingers again.

 

[Joe Vandatta]

Hold your thumb over number one cylinder until you feel compression and the rotar pointing at number one.

 

[bowserhound]

Can't do it by myself Joe, or I would. I just put a rod into the plug hole and watched it go up until it just barely started to go back down.

 

[tbird5866]

Remember .. the piston comes to the top twice for each cycle. That's why they call it a "four cycle" engine. Also means the timing mark will come to the pointer twice per cycle. Make sure the piston is at the top on the firing stroke when the mark comes to the pointer.

 

[SCUMDOG]

Try this: take out No.1 spark-plug, get a small piece of newspaper and screw it into a wad a little bigger than the threaded section of the spark-plug.

Take this wad and screw it a small ways into the spark-plug hole, firmly but not TOO tight.

Get into the car, twist the key and 'bump' the motor over one compression at a time, eventually you SHOULD here a small 'pop!' as the newspaper 'plug' blows out, that's when your just about on TDC.

You may end up a few degrees past TDC but at least you'll know that if you turn the motor over backwards to get the timing marks lined up you'll be on TDC.

Hope I made this clear!!!

 

[tbird5866]

Joe Van Datta suggested that you hold your thumb over the number 1 spark plug hole till you feel the compression. You responded "Can't do it by myself Joe, or I would. I just put a rod into the plug hole and watched it go up until it just barely started to go back down." You can do it by yourself using a remote starter button which you activate under the hood. Been there, done that.

 

[bowserhound]

Update

Now I am 99% sure it is correctly timed after a long hard trial period. I just finished rebuilding the carburetor yesterday and flooded it to let it sit overnight to expand the gaskets. i can't wait to get home today to try once again to hear some life from my Bird. If this doesn't work, I'm at a complete loss.

Wish me luck!

 

[SCUMDOG]

Keep us posted!

BTW You did check to see you weren't flooding the engine didn't you ??

Had a similar type of problem years ago - engine started, ran for a few seconds and died - float was damaged and too low and the fuel pump forced waaay too much fuel into the engine.

 

[bowserhound]

yup, I had to keep pumping the gas just to keep it running. While rebuilding the carb, it seems a few adjustments were off. We'll see...

 

[SCUMDOG]

yup, I had to keep pumping the gas just to keep it running. While rebuilding the carb, it seems a few adjustments were off. We'll see...

Sound like it's starving for fuel.
Is the accelerator pump on the carb working o.k.?
Is the choke working o.k.?
Is there any uncapped vacuum fittings?
Is the float level correct?

 

[bowserhound]

Didn't get a chance to turn her over last night (lol), but the accelerator pump looked fine, can't tell if the choke was performing properly without running the engine for a while - but I did adjust it, no uncapped vacuum fitting that I know of, and I did adjust the float level; I think it was a little low.

The only thing I wasn't sure of while rebuilding the carb was setting the choke plate gaps for the primary and secondary. I couldn't get both measurements at the same time. It's one or the other, or in my current case, in between.

 

[SCUMDOG]

Didn't get a chance to turn her over last night (lol), but the accelerator pump looked fine, can't tell if the choke was performing properly without running the engine for a while - but I did adjust it, no uncapped vacuum fitting that I know of, and I did adjust the float level; I think it was a little low.

The only thing I wasn't sure of while rebuilding the carb was setting the choke plate gaps for the primary and secondary. I couldn't get both measurements at the same time. It's one or the other, or in my current case, in between.

Remind me again what Make/model of carb you have.
Most carbs have the secondary plate completely shut at idle - having it open even a little will cause a lean mixture at idle.

 

[bowserhound]

Well, I had the same results once everything was back together. Only this time, I heard what I think is a leak from between the intake manifold and the block. The Edelbrock performer directions say to not use gaskets, just high temp sealant. I'm not too sure now. Regardless, I'm going to dismantle and reassemble again using gaskets and sealant.

 

[dans65]

Please tell me this isnt the same problem from September, I believe I mentioned then about not getting the proper sealing when using an edelbrock intake and having the exact same problem you are speaking of now.