Ignition Switch Issue

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MFreeman2004

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Aug 28, 2017
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The original Ignition Switch in my 66 T Bird...is in bad shape...worked on it is functional with issues...ordered a new one guess what it has an extra connector point outside the Y shaped plastic enclosure that house the other 3 conector points. The common connectou is a threaded rod in the center so the original has within the Y the light connection the power connection and the starter activation connection...The new switch has an extra connector outside the Y enclosure that is the starter activation connector. I have spoken to several suppliers tech people and all the indicated info shows the 4 connector plus the common as the only one...well not mine...any Ideas without a complete rewire how I find one like mine...I have pics of both...
 
Some generic switches have an extra connection that coincides with replacements for later years. My '64 wiring diagram shows 4 connections:
  • A Center bolted connector black-green stripe from the fuse panel circuit breaker (12 volts)
  • B Yellow fused 12 volts
  • C is a 2-wire connection. Green-red feeds the voltage regulator, and red-green feeds the coil.
  • D Red-blue that feeds the neutral safety switch and feeds the starter solenoid.
 
So does mine...the new ones have 5 connections including the threaded post. the problem is the extra ear connector is the starter connection and will not work?
 
Look at your wiring diagram. The 5th connector is probably redundant: see my earlier post for connection C. Use a VOM to verify.
 
Look at your wiring diagram. The 5th connector is probably redundant: see my earlier post for connection C. Use a VOM to verify.

I did. we installed the new one does not work. the connector is like the one you describe but the new switches are decidedly different although they look the same. The extra ear activates the starter solenoid...checked it with a meter. Just wondering why mine appears different although the wiring diagram matches what I have. almost like they split the two wire connection?
 
It wouldn't surprise me in the least if the extra ear is redundant. Ford probably changed the switch several times over several years, and parts manufacturers like to make only one type to satisfy most or all of the variations. Just use your VOM to map out the switch functions, do the same for the connector, then make the necessary changes.
 
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