I have a 1964 T-Bird and when i go over bumps the front end makes clunking noises, any Ideas on what this could be, so I dont buy 1 of the 50 suspension parts and have it be the wrong one. You cant hear it outside the car but it is really noticeable inside while driving,
Clunking on bumps
- Thread starter 64TBRD
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what is the best way to narrow it down, such as jack it up and wiggle parts until one rattles or what. It does it on the let down of the shock, if I go to the wheel well and lift up on the car and drop it down I can hear the clunk sound. But only on the driver side.
Dirty Birdy
Active member
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- Nov 21, 2009
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- 31
Could also be ball joints. Jack one side up at a time, using the control arm as the jacking point, you want it as close as possible to the ball joints, jack it up just far enough to get a bar under the tire. lift up on the bar and have someone watch the ball joints, there should be minimal plunge action. Im sure there is a spec for it but..... While still in the air, grab the wheel at the top and bottom. Wiggle it and watch for worn ball joints as well. Then try wiggling it by holding the wheel from either side, this will test if you have play in your tie rods/steering/wheel bearings. IF you feel play, watch and see if the rotor moves while you wiggle it, if it does, its bearings, if not its prob a tie rod. Also check the obvious, broken spring could make a clunk too.
tbird5866
Well-known member
I'm trying to think about this jacking procedure mentioned by "Dirty Birdy". If you jack the car up under the lower control arm, both ball joints will be under load and you will find nothing loose at the ball joints. If you jack up the car under the frame, you can find where the loose ball joints are. I hope I still have my facilities on this..
Dirty Birdy
Active member
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- Nov 21, 2009
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Sorry not right by the ball joints or your right it will load them up. In between where the control arms mount to the frame and the ball joint mounting points is best. By lifting by the frame there are too many other factors involved to correctly diag the ball joints. One being the control arms them selves. By putting the jack under the ( one side at a time) control arm, then lifting the wheel just far enough off the ground to get a big bar under the wheel then lifting upward under the wheel this will show you if there is any play.
Another test is to have someone simply turn the steering wheel back and forth (car not running) and watch for play in your idler arm (opposite of steering box)/pitman (on the end of your steering box)arm inner and outer tie rods. and center link. (these all connect to your steering knuckles and link it all together. )
Another test is to have someone simply turn the steering wheel back and forth (car not running) and watch for play in your idler arm (opposite of steering box)/pitman (on the end of your steering box)arm inner and outer tie rods. and center link. (these all connect to your steering knuckles and link it all together. )
Frat_man-du
Active member
I had a similar issue even after all new ball joints, end links, sway arm bushings, control arm bushings, new upper shock bushings I found the three little nuts that held the shock on the passenger side shock had loose tightened up and it it went away. You could also take the car to most any good tire/alignment shop and if they have a good mechanic they can diagnose pretty quick.
Hey ya..I had a similar drama with my 64..replaced heaps of stuff looking for it. one day i grabbed the wheel diagonally with both hands and shook it up and down and it made it..traced it to a lower control arm pivot bolt was loose and had worn the pivot carrier. to look at it looked fine and by grabbing the wheel top to bottom and front to back it did not make the noise. Wasnt till i moved the wheel in the natural direction it would travel after hitting a bump did it do it.
