Inertialmass
1964
After rebuilding my Integral AC/heater box I was still unsure about the temperature regulator's working status. I had previously looked for information on how to test it and couldn't find anything definitive. I did find a video and a web page that were helpful, https://duckduckgo.com/?q=1964+Ford+Thunderbird+19998+TRAP+-+EVAPORATOR+DRAIN+-+AIR+CONDITIONER&t=ffab&atb=v376-1&iax=videos&ia=videos&iai=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BfDcYwHGlJ4 and https://vintagethunderbirdclub.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=10608 but they didn't tell how to test it. Prior to completion of the rebuild I applied vacuum to the regulator and learned what I could, but it really wasn't much; I still didn't know if it worked or not.
After the rebuild was complete I installed new silicone vacuum lines and connected them to the control unit. I then tapped into the vacuum system of my wife's Jeep wrangler for a testing supply. Using Section 16-4 of the 1964 Ford Thunderbird Shop Manual I ran the control unit through all the settings and checked its function and whether or not my connections were correct. All doors opened and closed when they should, but I still didn't know about the temperature regulator so after testing the doors I focused only on the regulator. With vacuum applied to the system I set the control on Heat and the temperature setting on Max. With the inside of the squirrel cage being cold, the new water valve, which was also on my bench and plumbed in to vacuum opened. I removed the blower motor, and using a heat gun applied heat to the squirrel cage interior. As the regulator warmed up the water valve closed. When I removed heat and it cooled, the water valve again opened. For me this showed that the temperature regulator is working.
I think this test can be done with only the regulator on the bench by connecting vacuum to both the large main inlet nipple and the regulation nipple from the same source, and connecting the vacuum out nipple to anything that will indicate the presence of vacuum. This could be a gauge, water valve, or maybe nothing (you might be able to just listen and hear if it is open or closed. With everything connected, just apply heat from a heat gun or other source to the bi-metallic strip.
On another note: I also included two contingencies (learned from reading forums and watching videos) for if/when the temperature regulator fails in the future. (1) provided about 8" of extra vacuum line at the AC/heater box side of the regulator so it can can be removed through the firewall for servicing or replacement without disconnecting it after removing the blower motor (remember to make provisions for removing the hidden screw for blower motor removal). (2) I will install an extra vacuum line from the control unit (near the brown connection(where it will be connected when needed), but left disconnected) through the firewall (so it can be connected directly to the water valve if/when needed.
If the regulator fails in such a way that it leaks vacuum where the two black lines are connected to the regulator I will be able to simply plug them or connect them together. I tested the water valve with the bypass line directly to the water valve and it seems to work just fine and have some flow control by adjusting the heat (Min-Max) temperature control.
Hopefully this information is helpful to someone; if so please reply and let me know how it helped you.
After the rebuild was complete I installed new silicone vacuum lines and connected them to the control unit. I then tapped into the vacuum system of my wife's Jeep wrangler for a testing supply. Using Section 16-4 of the 1964 Ford Thunderbird Shop Manual I ran the control unit through all the settings and checked its function and whether or not my connections were correct. All doors opened and closed when they should, but I still didn't know about the temperature regulator so after testing the doors I focused only on the regulator. With vacuum applied to the system I set the control on Heat and the temperature setting on Max. With the inside of the squirrel cage being cold, the new water valve, which was also on my bench and plumbed in to vacuum opened. I removed the blower motor, and using a heat gun applied heat to the squirrel cage interior. As the regulator warmed up the water valve closed. When I removed heat and it cooled, the water valve again opened. For me this showed that the temperature regulator is working.
I think this test can be done with only the regulator on the bench by connecting vacuum to both the large main inlet nipple and the regulation nipple from the same source, and connecting the vacuum out nipple to anything that will indicate the presence of vacuum. This could be a gauge, water valve, or maybe nothing (you might be able to just listen and hear if it is open or closed. With everything connected, just apply heat from a heat gun or other source to the bi-metallic strip.
On another note: I also included two contingencies (learned from reading forums and watching videos) for if/when the temperature regulator fails in the future. (1) provided about 8" of extra vacuum line at the AC/heater box side of the regulator so it can can be removed through the firewall for servicing or replacement without disconnecting it after removing the blower motor (remember to make provisions for removing the hidden screw for blower motor removal). (2) I will install an extra vacuum line from the control unit (near the brown connection(where it will be connected when needed), but left disconnected) through the firewall (so it can be connected directly to the water valve if/when needed.
If the regulator fails in such a way that it leaks vacuum where the two black lines are connected to the regulator I will be able to simply plug them or connect them together. I tested the water valve with the bypass line directly to the water valve and it seems to work just fine and have some flow control by adjusting the heat (Min-Max) temperature control.
Hopefully this information is helpful to someone; if so please reply and let me know how it helped you.
