'66 Town Landau Vinyl Top-needs replacing

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my66cruiser

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Sep 17, 2010
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My '66 has some minor roof rust - due to holes/cracks (you name it) in the vinyl top. I want to have the vinyl top replaced (and the rust fixed at the same time). I have heard that a window has to be removed to do this properly. Is this true? If so, which one has to be removed (front/rear) and is it possible to do w/o removing the window? Any place in LI,NY recommended to do such work?
 
Only if rust has eaten threw the roof metal on rear and front windsheilds. Very expensive to do repairs the right way as I did mine and you got your work cut out for you. Big job!
Did mine while restoring and replacing door gaskets. On inner door molding throw screws away and replace with pop rivits, easier to remove later and will hold tighter than a screw.Can get them in aluminum and stainless and will not rust. These will not be seen they are covered up by outer trim for door gasket.
 
Hi again Buster53,

Thanks for answering and for the weatherstripping hardware tip. Using hardware that does't rust makes sense and the rivets are a neat idea. I have not started this job yet but probably soon since I am getting tired of looking at my black duct tape on my vinyl roof. All of my door weatherstripping will be done too when I do the roof since it is old and cracked.
 
Hi Buster53,

Thank you for your info. And if I need any assistance, I'll be sure to contact you.
 
Note that the vinyl top was originally installed between the stainless drip rail and the vehicle body. Also the vinyl was wider than what is readily available. You can, of course, install your vinyl top without removing the stainless drip rail, cutting and caulking in the drip rail trough . It just will not be original.
 
Hi Harley,

Yes. If and when I do it, I will do it the original way and get it underneath the drip rails and whatever other trim it should be under. Thanks for mentioning that to me.
 
vinyl top

I did mine the original way, under drip rail and all other chrome related to car. The guy at the trim shop told the same thing about not going under drip rail, defeated my purpose of a full restore of not getting all rust out. Maybe replacing top again if it leaks under again.Thanks Buster53
 
vinyl top

The original replacment top for 66 comes with excess material so it can be trimmed to fit correct. I ordered mine from Macs with the correct grain material for less than two hundred. And it was a padded top. Did mine myself and saved the 8hundred trim shop wanted, and it looks great.
 
strange wire

cruiser, I have a ground wire that is broken loose located on drivers side of carjust left of sterring section. It is grounded on fender well under master clyinder just where brake lines go to the proportion valve. Can you see on your ride if it goes into wire harness connection block or some where else?
It would be of great help to me to find its location and where this wire goes to. Buster53
 
Hi Buster,

I'll take a look today for that ground wire. My car is not all original but I'll take a look and get back to you by tonight.
 
Hi Buster53,

I just looked at my car and did not see this wire. I only noticed the main firewall connectors that are very low on the firewall (driver's side) and the harnesses that are routed along the wheel well. These lead to the front of the vehicle.

But it could be that your car has some options that mine doesn't and also the fact that my harnesses may not be all original.

Hopefully someone else can answer your inquiry.
 
Thanks cruiser I'm still looking for the broken wire, my ride has cruise control thought it went there but it doesn't. I'm going to check some PDF's and see if maybe there was a switch on proportion valve for a brake failure switch maybe there use to be one in past. I do know, however the brake lines on mine have been replaced in past years by whoever and maybe some left overparts that was not replaced by a shadtree. Just got to have leftover parts or it won't work. And the mystery continues. Thanks
 
Hi Buster53,

Okay. Thanks for explaining. My car does not have cruise control, it does not have air conditioning, and it does not have power windows so I have fewer wires than those with these features. I hope you can find where your mystery wire goes. The proper wiring diagram should help if you can ascertain the color of the wire - assuming it is an original wire.
 
I think you will find that the ground wire from the steering gear box to the chassis (inner fender) simply grounds the gearbox/ steering column to the car. It was used on some models that needed that ground for the horn.
 
Harley. I will look again, I did not look at sterring column very close except on inside of the car. One of the last things on my list is to rebuild the sterring column, which will take place shortley. Thats makes more sense to me than anything else. The wire is black, maybe broken loose when brake lines were replaced. Very tight place to work in unless fender skirt is removed.These cars have a slide away sterring column and does not ground on inside of car, so maybe this is it. Thanks Buster53
 
Harley, Cruiser, I found were wire went, It was broken loose from bolt that holds bearing in column just above rag joint. That will go away from where its located to a easier place to get at. I will install a small braided cable on inside of car to sterring column. This should give a more permanet ground that is flexable and do a better job of grounding and be protected. These little cables are cheap and do a good job can get them from parts store. Thanks Guys, Buster53
 
Hi Buster,

Glad you found the mystery wire. I still don't know if my car has this wire or not. I will have to look again. Your braided wire idea sounds like a good one as long as you can still ground what needs to be grounded. Once again, Harley saves the day.
 
Project is Started - finally.

It has been a while and I have been enjoying my T-Bird, albeit with black duct tape on my worn and old vinyl top just to keep the water out. Well, my car is now somewhat apart in order to restore the top. I have removed the necessary interior trim, rear seats, weather stripping and weather stripping channels, drip rails, front windshield left, right, and top trim. Sure has lots of trim.

The roof had some surface rust - most of it on the passenger side than the driver side. So I have half surface rust and half parchment paint/adhesive on top. This is the original car color but car is now metallic light blue now. The sides where the Landau bars and beltline trim are look very well - in great shape. Some small rust holes at the lower part of the rear window where the vinyl roof was, but easy repair there. I also will be restoring the two headliners in the car as the vinyl has separated.

Now, I would like to know if you agree with my procedure for the next phase to restore the roof. I am not an expert, not even a novice so please let me know if this sounds alright.

1) Remove all adhesive and residual foamy bits.
2) Sand everything down to either metal or good paint. Use a wire wheel to clean out channels at sides of roof.
3) Rust Paint everything with Eastwoods rust paint or other.
4) Repair small holes with whatever one repairs small holes with. Any suggestions, fiberglass gel and hardener, bondo? What is the best small hole repair filler?
5) Apply second coat of black rust paint.
6) Install new vinyl top and put everything back together. Of course one can leave off the vinyl and just paint but I like the original look.

Also, any suggestions for the foam that is used under the vinyl top? Or is it okay to not use any?

Thanks for your help. My car sure looks interesting with a light blue body, parchment sides of roof with some foamy fuzz hanging on, half rust color and half parchment roof. Thanks.
 
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