55 R.H. exhaust manifold

[jwoodsmall]

The heat riser on my 55 has siezed shut and when checking closer the manifold is cracked where the stud holding the manifold to the exhaust pipe connects. I have found another manifold and have a new heat riser. My question is when removing the manifold and installing the new one is there anything I should be aware of before starting to do this project? I read that a graphite grease should be applied to the block before installing the replacement manifold and heard that lock washers should not be used when replacing the bolts.
Can anyone throw a little light on my next, seemingly never ending, "T" Bird project.

 

[nomadbird]

It sounds like you were given the straight scoop. Lock washers aren't used on the exhaust manifolds, but you do use flat washers. The only other thing I might suggest is to use red RTV instead of the graphite compound. Minor irregularities on the mating surfaces which may result in leaks, are more readily sealed with the Red RTV.

If you don't care about authenticity, you could use gaskets. (shudder)

You're right about these cars being an onging project. It kind of makes one appreciate the reliability of contemporary cars. (I can't believe I said that!)

Tom

 

[jwoodsmall]

Tom:
Thanks for the reply! I had not heard of red RTV but will use it on the replacement. Iam also glad to hear about flat, rather than lock washers. Even though this has become a never ending project, I couldnt be happier with all that goes along with the little birds and all the work that makes them stay on the road.
Jim

 

[Wizard]

Jwoodsmall,

Be sure and check your timing for proper advance at higher rpms! If your advance is not working properly, exhaust will run very hot and can cause cracks like you had...hate to see new repair work get ruined again!

Wiz

 

[jwoodsmall]

Wiz;
Thanks for the advice. I did put new plugs, points, condensor etc. about a month ago and everything seemed to check out well, after a little "tweeking". I think the crack is from some time ago as it looks like its been there awhile, but I will check timing etc. again after I get the new manifold on.
Jim

 

[ACthunderbird]

On the heat riser: The best thing I think to do is remove the innards, and weld the holes shut from the inside. You have a piece that looks authentic, but no troublesome flapper. The biggest problem with our Birds is heat, and a sticking riser is a big cause. Your car will start, warm up and run fine without it. No restrictions in the exhaust means cooler running. Also, try some anti-seize on the manifold to exhaust pipe threads, and exhaust connections. You will thank me when you take them apart later on.

 

[jwoodsmall]

ACThunderbird:
Thanks for the reply! I havent worked on the manifold yet as it has been very cold in Michigan this winter. I do have a good place for the "Bird" but its not heated! I have wondered if the heat riser is really needed for the choke to work etc. but if it is not needed I will do as you say and get rid of the flapper.
Jim