shift lever

[65BLUBIRD]

I have a shift lever that stays in park but is kind of iffy about it. I have seen posts about replacing the shift lever, as the most likely suspect, or having it repaired by welding and grinding. 1st, it sounds pretty straight forward as far as removing the pin but the posts suggest this can be quite a headache. 2nd the install of the shift lever also sounds tricky as owners have had problems with that. So what are the tricks on the pin removal and lever replacement? Repair the lever or purchase one if possible? Sounds like a lot of people have done this but does not appear to be as straight forward as it appears.

 

[makrie]

There's a good discussion from Oct. 2002 titled "66 SHIFTER DETENT PLATE??????????"

Check it out...it might answer most of your concerns. Read the entire thread as it touches on more then one area.

Good luck!

 

[sseebart]

A weak shifter is likely caused by more things than a worn shift lever. Typically, the detente plate is also worn, as is the upper bearing. The lower bushing is frequently missing in these cases, too.

To make the shifter safe again, it's almost always necessary to pull the column and replace most of these parts. If you can find someone to weld the shift lever and grind it to the proper size, it will last longer, as the metal used in welding is harder than the original.

Is it a pain to do? Absolutely. But it's worth it.

~Steve

 

[Terry64HT]

Unless you know someone who can do the welding, the cost at a regular shop is probably going to be as much or more than buying a new shift lever. Likewise, the detente plate is pretty cheap.
John Draxler's Thunderbird Ranch site has good info on diagnosing and fixing the problem. There is also a note there about replacing the lower bushing without removing the steering column. I did mine following this advice.
Hope this helps
Terry
64HT

 

[65BLUBIRD]

Thanks for the encouragement and pointing me to that old post. I had the printout from Thunderbird ranch, just wanted some info with experienced trial and error. It appears that it is a grind but doable. So shift levers are available from the Tbird catalogs? Might as well order with the bushing.

 

[Terry64HT]

When I disassembled the top of my steering column, the detente plate was more worn than the shift lever. It's about 1/3 the price of the shift lever. If you can remove enough up top to get an idea of the condition of each (I don't recall how much is visible with the steering wheel removed), you can order what you need.
Terry
64HT

 

[65BLUBIRD]

Thanks again. I have seen in the posts that when replacing the bushing, I may need to adjust the neutral safety switch on steering column. Is this trial and error or any tip there? I have a 65 and like I said the gear shift is good, just touchy. Fixes where the car doesn't start concern me.

 

[Terry64HT]

I did the bushing and bearing several years ago and didn't have to touch the neutral safety switch. I understand the biggest problem with them is a stripped screw holding them to the column. It is a trial and error thing, not hard to do, but awkward to get to.
Terry
64HT

 

[65BLUBIRD]

Perfect storm...all inexpensive parts, with a lot of labor and patience needed. No wonder I put this job off.

 

[sseebart]

Here are some photos I took a few years back when I did this job: http://thunderbird.seebart.org/photo-journals/steeringcolumnandshifter

~Steve

 

[65BLUBIRD]

Man o man I do not want to get into that jungle. I really appreciate the photos and captions. Really helps a lot vs shop manual. Can you get to the détente plate without removing the steering tube? My shift lever does not slide between gears. At times, when parking, I have to really make sure it is in park and even at that I block a wheel. From what I understand I can replace the lower bushing and shift lever without removal of column/tube.

 

[65BLUBIRD]

you can get to the détente plate without steering column removal? If so I think I can do the shift lever, lower bushing and plate with a lot of patience.

 

[Terry64HT]

I first did the detente plate without the shift lever. I don't recall it being too difficult. The lower bushing can be done by cutting it as described by several people. I'm going to do the shift lever only because I have to get in there to finish my modifications to put a 66 steering wheel on my 64 and I found one at a swap meet, new and stupid cheap.
By the way, I have been a fan of Sseebart's blog for some time. I did not know he also resided here. Steve, you have my admiration.
Terry
64HT

 

[HeadacheGuy]

Good coincidence you posted now as I was just into my column yesterday. Couple of sidebars here as it sounds like you you have a pretty good handle on the situation. One issue I had to address was pivot bushing at the link arm at the base of the column (on the outside going to the transmission linkage) I made my own and it made a big difference on this thing staying in park. Second issue (which I doubt you have) is that the previous owner didn't lock in the shift collar with the 2 7/16 nuts which made the upper collar retainer move. He tightened the nuts but the rear heads were not locked into the shaft tube (I've actually seen this done a half dozen times over the yrs so I thought I would mention it). I had been driving it for the past yr and 1/2 this way just thinking it was loose.

 

[Gary Tayman]

Detent plate is cheap. Shift lever is cheap. Lower bushing is cheap. Upper bearing, if needed, is cheap.

That lower bushing gets me. I replaced it, later disappeared, had it replaced again, and recently the shift has been acting up and I bet it's gone again.

The shift lever and detent plate are probably also worn. Seems there are replacements, for several years EXCEPT the 1964-66, that are much more positive than the originals, and help prevent the shift-into-reverse-by-itself problem. With all the recalls of cars for piddly-crap things over the years, I cannot understand why there was nevr a recall, or even an upgrade, for these Fords with the shift lever problem. It seems somebody could design a better lower bushing that's a bit more permanent, and a detent mechanism that keeps the car in park until you're ready to go. Yes, even after all these years. Whatever.

I suppose one day I'll be rebuilding the column AGAIN . . .

 

[sseebart]

The detente plates are pretty sturdy units. I've discovered that the replacement shift levers, though, are made from even softer metal than the originals. If you have a mig welder (or have access to a welding shop), it's better to weld up the groove in the lever rather than replace with a reproduction. Grind it into the proper shape, and the weld will be far harder than the original metal: the repair will last longer.

~Steve

 

[Terry64HT]

Yes the detente plates are sturdy compared to the shift lever, but they wear all the same. I did my detente plate before my shift lever since I bought one at Carlisle from Pat Wilson. Once I had it apart, I found how bad the shift lever was, but getting parts to Canada can be slow and painful, so I did the detente alone. When you compare an old and new, you will see how much the "sharpness" is gone from the ridges and slopes.
The detente plate is about 1/3 the cost of the lever, and it's a good idea to plan to do both.
As an aside, my wife had given me one of those battery powered auto hammers that I never could find a use for. It does a great job of removing and re-installing roll pins in the shift levers.
Terry
64HT