Please help....

[derek]

My grandfather and i finished restoring a 56 t-bird about 2 years ago. From the ground up fully restored color and all.

Grandpa and grandma bought the car new in 56 so it is an important part of the family.

Bad news, grandpa passed away so i am trying to get the basics on the car so grandma can drive it.

See the car is drained of all fluids and i need to know what fluids to use?

I am very mechanically inclined but this car is way before my time.

For the motor oil, can i use a synthetic blend, what weight etc? and would my local auto parts store actually carry the filter?

Next would be the transmission, automatic, and same questions. Synthetic, what weight, etc?

Then onto the radiator, same questions apply.

and brakes, obviously the same questions apply.

Basically, as stated, this car has no fluids in it and i am wanting to let my grandma get some joy out of the car while she can.

Again, fully restored from the ground up. beautiful car.

Any and all help is more than appreciated and would mean the world to my family. Sorry for all the questions.

I'm just hoping that someone can chime in and help me through this.

Again, thank you very much!

 

[gbhrps]

derek,
More power to you and yours for keeping the small bird up, happy and on the road.

First off, this car is simple, old technology and doesn't require the synthetics, nor would it be wise to use them. In most cases synthetics are just too thin and slippery, will cause a myriad of leaks and grief.

You can get the required oil filter at at Ford dealership. Just tell them the year and engine size (yours is the 292 I'm betting). Then get the equivalent filter from Napa, Fram, Pep Boys, etc. Its pretty standard. As for oil, Shell Rotella 10w30. These old gals have large oil channels and bearing tolerances and require this heavier stuff. Change it every 3000 miles (it'll take 6 quarts or so, very large pan). If the engine doesn't have the twist on oil filter, get an adapter from NPD or Mac's.

At the Ford dealership get their Type F tranny fluid, again tell them the year and engine.

Any good prestone for the radiator at 50/50 blend with water for a steel engine block will fill the bill.

Brakes require DOT3, forget the silicone as it'll eat the rubber hoses and seals. Flush the fluid out every 4 years.

Rear end uses a standard 90 weight gear drive oil.

The propeller shaft, ball joints, and steering linkages need greasing every oil change.

Purchase a new condensor and points set now, as the day will come when they're needed and no one locally will have them on hand for 3 or 4 days. Order from Ford or National Parts Depot or Mac's Antique Auto parts. These last two (and there are others as well) have all the parts required to restore 55-57 TBirds, even online.

The biggest problem with these old gals is they overheat when they age as rust builds up in the water jackets of the cylinders. I suggest you track down a separate temp gauge and install it. I have a small digital unit that hides in the ash tray. Its sender bulb sits just inside the inlet of the upper rad hose (just push rad hose over and tighten clamp, no holes to drill) and its zip tied wire runs under rad hose to heater hose to inside car under dash to ash tray.

I suggest that you join a local car club (TBIRD or Ford is best) to find the old guys who grew up with the small birds and know how to keep them happy, because your average garage won't.

The best of luck, and GOOD JOB keeping Grandmother and the small bird happy! You have my respect!

 

[derek]

gbrps,
the utmost respect to you my friend. thank you for everything. shouldn't i be able to go to my local auto parts store and give them year/make/model and get the filter that way?

As i said, this car is completely restored. 0 miles. I will take pictures and post once up and running.

I really need to pull the cover off the car due to the fact i have not seen the engine bay in a couple years. As for the transmission, I should be able to fill from the engine bay beings it's an automatic i assume?

Again, thank you for your warm welcomes and answering my questions. You sir do have my respect.

 

[derek]

I actually called the local auto parts store and i gave them the engine size in which they used to locate the ford sunliner. Now my question is, would it work?

 

[gbhrps]

Derek,
As long as its the same engine size, you'll be able to use the same oil filter for the Sunliner. Check the Data Plate on the firewall (passenger side). Where the serial number is located (upper right of plate), the very first digit is the engine size, "M" is the 292 cu in, "P" is a 312 cu in. Crawl under the car on the driver's side and look at the filter beside the oil pan half way back on engine. If its a twist on, that's what you'll need and you can buy them at any auto parts store that can give you a cross reference.

If its the original oil filter configuration, meaning its a metal can with a large bolt head in its middle, the filter needed has to come from Ford or a TBird parts specialist, or old Ford parts specialist. This is because its a paper element that needs changing, along with its separate rubber gasket. Messy. If this is what's on the car, consider adding the adapter plate that allows use of the newer twist on filters.

As for the tranny, fill from the engine bay (pass side). Add only what's required with the engine running, at idle, in park. Just check the level indicators on the dipstick for a cold engine or one that's up to temperature.

From my previous post I suggested Shell Rotella 10W30. That's because its the only oil that still has ZDDP in small amounts in it for keeping the unhardened older valves in antique cars from wearing rapidly, since lead was dropped from gasoline. You could use someone else's 10W30, and add your own ZDDP if you wish, or get the heads pulled from the car and have hardened seats put in.

If you have any other concerns, just post, as I check in here most every day. As you'll find from reading the forum here, there isn't a lot of activity.

By the way .... go online to National Parts Depot, or macsautoparts.com, or thunderbirdcenter.com to see what they have. They'll usually send out a catalogue free of charge. There's lots to learn just by flipping through the pages. Good Luck

 

[derek]

gbhrps,
Thank you for your vast knowledge. I did get under the car and look at the oil filter. it seems to be a newer filter due to the fact it looks like a standard twist on filter made from valvoline. Definetly looks standard.

I did have to order a new battery. See, i liove in Grand Junction, Colorado and when i sourced this battery the techs had no idea whatsoever. I did manage to order one so it should be here tuesday or wednesday.

We are from San Diego and grandma and grandpa were avid members of a t-bird club based out of San Diego but that was a few years back.

Again, thank you for your help.

Oh, 2 big questions,

I need to fill/bleed the brakes and am not sure where the reservoir is? is it up against the fire wall on the drivers side of the engine compartment?

Power steering fluid? Does this year have power steering? If so, where in the heck is the reservoir?

I sure feel unintelligent when it comes to this car. As i said, I am very familiar with modern cars and quite inclined but this is a whole new learning curve.

 

[gbhrps]

Brake master cylinder is on firewall right in front of the driver. As far as bleeding the system, start at the farthest wheel from the MC and work towards the closest.

A 56 could have power steering, easy to find the reservoir as its belt driven off the same belt that turns the fan and the generator. If you find a black can with a twist top filler on the driver's side, right up front behind the radiator, you've got power steering, and that's where the fluid goes.

Just get another Valvoline oil filter or cross reference that number for a Fram or Penzoil or whatever grabs your fancy. Buy a one inch box end wrench (from a pawn shop) for that oil drain plug, as a socket from a ratchet won't fit.

No more apologies, please. Everyone has to start somewhere. Even me .... but darn .... that was a long time ago ....I think.

 

[derek]

update....
as of today, i drained the oil, filled with new shell rotella oil as you stated. New oil filter.

Bled the brakes and now have pressure again. :cheers

put about 5 gallons of gas in the bird.

have the battery on order and to my avail it still isnt in so we took a different battery and used it to get power.

so once everything was in place we went ahead to crank and sure enough she would turn but not fire. even primed the carb and almost had her going.

we had fuel all the way up to the fuel pump but that was as far as it got. none in the fuel bowl either:cry

so i went ahead and ordered a new fuel pump seeings this one the seals maybe went bad? i don't know but as i said, fuel all the way to the pump and then flatline from there.

i hope i'm on the right track? so close but now i wait for 4 days beings the fuel pump comes all the way from jacksonville. crossing my fingers i can awaken the bird for my grandma. she would definetly love it as i'm sure my grandfather will be smiling down.

once she's awake i will take pictures and post. she beauty. thanks again for your insight gbhrps.

 

[Jimz Bird]

Just a word of encouragement from another "Old Bird". I guess that is me and the car both. :yesnod

Nice to see your interest and concern.

Fuel pumps and and other old rubber gaskets and lines react badly to the alcohol in the new blends of fuel so be aware of that. Try to get the highest octane you can that is not mixed with Ethanol. Watch out for fuel leaks in the carb also as there are components there that are affected by the ethanol.

Best of fortune to you. These old cars are a bit more "trouble" to maintain but if you like fooling with cars they are a lot more fun, which vastly outweighs learning the new skilz to play with them.

And no doubt being a young guy you know "Google is your friend". :cheers

Jim

 

[gbhrps]

I agree with Jimz bird,

I've replaced the fuel pump twice in the 10 years I've had the 55. Both times the diaphragm was eaten by the ethanol in the unleaded fuel available now. (Both pumps, original and its first replacement were NOS) The last fuel pump has a diaphragm that's supposed to be compatible and unaffected. Seems to be good as its been working fine for the last 6 years or so.

I can't recall where I sourced it from, but it was one of the major TBird parts specialists available online or by catalogue.

As an aside, don't be fooled by seeing fuel in the sediment bowl and still not having the engine fire. Been there. Just because you see fuel in the bowl doesn't mean that its being pumped on to the carb. Be sure to verify that fuel is actually getting into the carb.

 

[derek]

update:
The bird is up and running. i repeat the bird is up and running:driving

replaced the fuel pump and all went fairly well. problem im at now is the fuel filter is bad. went back to napa and the filter my parts guy shows and all he can find just falls into the sediment bowl instead of sitting/resting at the top? not sure if i should go with a universal or source the one that fits the bowl.

next is my temp gauge goes crazy. one second it's reading great, the next it's pinned on hot? maybe a bad ground? i have to source the ground beings the car has new paint and powder coated chassis maybe the ground isn't touching bare metal? i am really confused on this part....

other than that the car is running,shifting,and driving like i could never imagine. what an awesome car. took my grandma for a ride since she wasnt ready to drive it yet and she said "she was so happy she could cry". that there made me feel like my work has and is paying off.

 

[Jimz Bird]

"You done good Boy" :cheers You are a good Grandson Derek!

Your choice on the fuel filter. You can get an "original" style or replace it.

If you replace it just stash the original as you should any "original" parts you replace.

Just another thought if it is going to be driven much, especially by Grandma, is that I would recommend that you up grade the front drum brakes to disc brakes. It is really needed if you plan on doing much driving in traffic. You probably noticed that the brakes and not all that good compared to modern ones in stopping power. Especially in panic stops due to fade and the pulling of drum brakes.

Here are a couple of links for TBird specific parts. There are more and the auto parts stores will have some generic old Ford parts that will work.

Welcome to Classic Auto Supply
Classic Ford & Thunderbird Parts Supplier - Concours Parts
Thunderbird Headquarters Ford Thunderbird Parts
MAC's Antique Auto Parts

Here is a site of interest also - especially "Gil's Garage" section.
CTCI - Classic Thunderbird Club International

HTH

What color is the Bird and interior?

Again, congratz on getting the bird flying again. :coolg

Jim

 

[derek]

thanks jimzbird!
the color is peacock blue. interior is also peacock blue dash and seats with white inserts. soft top is also white. i will post pictures soon.

 

[gbhrps]

derek,
The temp gauge flutter is pretty common. Mine had it until I replaced it with a repo unit from one of the many suppliers. Just be sure to get the right one for your year. Neither a 55 nor a 57 will work correctly. First though, I'd check the feed line from the temp sensor itself to be sure its not loose or corroded.

 

[derek]

gbhrps,
I did indeed do that and seems like the temp is working fine now. I will take it day by day and if it acts up i will definetly follow your advice as i have. You sir have been a tremendous help!

Took her around the block a few times and she was running great. Got her home, shut her off and immediately went to fire her back up and to my avail, click, click, click like the battery was dead? This was not the case seeings i have power everywhere else. Now i need to source the grounds, i don't know. She sure is putting up a fight....but she is runningatriot

Oh, once i reach say 20moh i get this weird clicking i think is coming from the speedometer? That i will also have to troubleshoot.

I took some pictures on my iphone but have to have my wife download them to the computer. I really want to post pictures. She is a beaut!

 

[gbhrps]

Derek,
I am very pleased to hear about your success, and read between the lines about how excited you are! I've been there myself a few times now with each of my toys. It really does make one smile kind of silly at times.

As for your battery, you may want to consider changing the battery to a more modern, common sized, larger capacity one like I did. All that was required in my case was to cut, resize, weld up and paint the metal ring on top of the battery to the new size. Now I'm not at the mercy of needing to find a supplier for those older sized batteries. I can get what I need at any auto supply store that sells a 6 volt. Sure, the purists would cry out at such a foul, but my car is a driver and never will be in a car show as long as I own it. Been there and never found them to be much fun.

Check out that starter selenoid. Short across its 2 terminals with an old screwdriver (with the ignition on) to see if the starter fires up. If it does, you need a new selenoid. (never can remember how to spell that word) Good Luck!

As for my helping out ... I'm only passing on what many people have done for me when I got my first antique car. God bless them all!

Gene

 

[derek]

well here i sit stumped as to why i cant get the car to turn over? everything else is in working order but now i am at a stand still as to why....

last weekend i fired her up and took her around the block 5 or 6 times. then pulled her into the garage and shut her off. for fun i tried to restart and nothing. just a click,click,click sound. i'm leaning towards the starter but i could be wrong? the engine isn't even trying to turn over which leads me to think the starter went. but why? it is also new.

i must say, she is putting up quite the fight.

 

[gbhrps]

Derek,
As I said, check out your selenoid. Short its 2 large leads with an old screw driver or battery cable to see if the starter spins. If it does, you need a new selenoid. If it doesn't, then there isn't enough voltage getting to the starter.

A weak battery, corroded or loose terminals, or weak starter could be the problem. If it is the starter, having it rebuilt locally may be cheaper than getting a rebuilt/new one from the auto suppliers.

Here's hoping its something simple. Good Luck!

 

[derek]

okay, so i started tinkering with the car a bit more and to my avail the solenoid was sticking. bought a new one and voila:drivingcar is purring again.

now onto my next question, i was still stumped as to why i was losing power. ran a volt meter to the battery and while the car was started i was losing juice? so maybe the voltage regulator?

again, thank you for your positive and spot on help.

 

[gbhrps]

Derek,
You may have hit on your problem. My original voltage regulator went south just last summer, and I had to replace it for the very same reason. It was easy to check, as I have a very good automotive electrical shop nearby where the problem was quickly diagnosed. They were even able to get the regulator required the very next day.
Gene