Received this info from one of the previous members. See the attachments for details. Hope it helps:
I've hesitated in responding because it has been a few years since doing this and I as afraid of leaving out something important. I don't know how far you are stripping down the car so let's assume you're only removing the dash.
(1) Always remove the top,seat, and steering column first
(2) Remove hardware at dash attaching the parking brake, hood release and windshield wiper switch. Disconnect speedo and tach cables.
(3) Remove ash tray tracks and radio.
(4) Remove heater control and disconnect heater blower wires.
(5) Disconnect left air cable under hood. Disconnect all wires under hood that are part of the 14401 harness. Remove harness clamp at firewall. Feed harness into car interior.
(6) Remove all bright trim from dash ends and windshield.
(7) Remove all dash/body attaching screws. I think there are ~ 5 or 7 along bottom of windshield. Remove the bolts that attach the dash to the "L" shaped brackets under the front of the dash near the front of the door opening. Do not remove the brackets from the cowl. Make sure you dont misplace the unique washers used at this attachment point. Remove courtesy light switches from hinge pillars.
(8) There are a couple wiring connections inside the car at the trans tunnel and coming off the steering column that we haven't mentioned, so just use common sense and logic and it should go smoothly.
(9) One person at each end of the dash should be able to remove the dash and Main harness fairly easy.
Lucky you! I see you live in Ohio. That is where we Baby Bird owners have one of our best suppliers and two of the most capable restoration shops specializing in '55-'57 T-Birds. Would like to answer your questions first.
(1) "L" brackets are left on the cowl to allow sliding the dash off and on. They will help accurately locate the dash at reassembly time. They were assembled on the car when it was originally painted.
(2) Wiper knob has a set screw located around 3 or 4 o'clock to secure it to a "D" shaped shaft. Same story on the heater blower switch.
(3) You can re-cover the dash yourself. I need to know your objectives before offering advise. It's a big ticket part that deserves respect.
While you've got the heater out, save yourself a big PITA later,(and freezing it off, since you live in Ohio), and order a new lever for the lower control on your heater during one of your other orders. It's made of spring steel, and everyone I've ever met said it breaks after a few years because it has to be forced up and over as you go from off to heat. Yeah, yeah, I thought, I've got enough CURRENTLY broken stuff that I can forego the stuff that MIGHT break...
I've hesitated in responding because it has been a few years since doing this and I as afraid of leaving out something important. I don't know how far you are stripping down the car so let's assume you're only removing the dash.
(1) Always remove the top,seat, and steering column first
(2) Remove hardware at dash attaching the parking brake, hood release and windshield wiper switch. Disconnect speedo and tach cables.
(3) Remove ash tray tracks and radio.
(4) Remove heater control and disconnect heater blower wires.
(5) Disconnect left air cable under hood. Disconnect all wires under hood that are part of the 14401 harness. Remove harness clamp at firewall. Feed harness into car interior.
(6) Remove all bright trim from dash ends and windshield.
(7) Remove all dash/body attaching screws. I think there are ~ 5 or 7 along bottom of windshield. Remove the bolts that attach the dash to the "L" shaped brackets under the front of the dash near the front of the door opening. Do not remove the brackets from the cowl. Make sure you dont misplace the unique washers used at this attachment point. Remove courtesy light switches from hinge pillars.
(8) There are a couple wiring connections inside the car at the trans tunnel and coming off the steering column that we haven't mentioned, so just use common sense and logic and it should go smoothly.
(9) One person at each end of the dash should be able to remove the dash and Main harness fairly easy.
Lucky you! I see you live in Ohio. That is where we Baby Bird owners have one of our best suppliers and two of the most capable restoration shops specializing in '55-'57 T-Birds. Would like to answer your questions first.
(1) "L" brackets are left on the cowl to allow sliding the dash off and on. They will help accurately locate the dash at reassembly time. They were assembled on the car when it was originally painted.
(2) Wiper knob has a set screw located around 3 or 4 o'clock to secure it to a "D" shaped shaft. Same story on the heater blower switch.
(3) You can re-cover the dash yourself. I need to know your objectives before offering advise. It's a big ticket part that deserves respect.
While you've got the heater out, save yourself a big PITA later,(and freezing it off, since you live in Ohio), and order a new lever for the lower control on your heater during one of your other orders. It's made of spring steel, and everyone I've ever met said it breaks after a few years because it has to be forced up and over as you go from off to heat. Yeah, yeah, I thought, I've got enough CURRENTLY broken stuff that I can forego the stuff that MIGHT break...
