Convertible Top Issues

[mlance]

The operation of the convertible top on my '63 Bird has become slower and slower. I decided today that it was high time to get it serviced. I took the car to my 'regular' mechanic to have the fluid level in the hydraulic pump reservoir checked and the system checked for any leaks.

After we raised the deck lid and removed the spare tire, we were surprised to find that we could not find the pump reservoir. I'm embarrassed to say that I don't know my car better! We then removed the rear seat....still no reservoir.

When I had the car restored in 1986, my 'top' man made a new top and installed the new hydraulics. Unfortunately, I was not present and did not learn how everything worked and WHERE THE HYDRAULIC PUMP RESERVOIR IS LOCATED.

I am writing to ask a more knowledgable person to inform me about the location of the reservoir so I can get this 'Bird back on the road.
Thanks,
Michael

 

[phjohnso]

The Top pump on the bullet bird is located in the rear wheel well below the level of the rear trunk floor. it is on the passenger side and bolted to a brace when you look down inside the rear well.

I had some pictures from my old 62 but I deleted them a few weeks ago.

let me know if you find it.

 

[Gregory]

It easy to expose the hydraulid pump in the rear passenger fender, accessing from the trunk, remove the plug to the resovour, using a turkey baster with a bulb on one end you can easly remove the fluid and put it in a glass jar. This will allow you to see the condition of the fluid and any solids will settle to the bottom. There are two fluids used to refill the system. The orginal system used brake fluid and rubber seals in the cylinders. Retro fits, later installations used neoprene seals and require the red colored transmission fluid. Check to see what you have in your system. Work the system a few times then empty and refil he Reservoir. It is easy to do even for the novice.
Gregory

 

[phjohnso]

Please note that if the fluid stinks it is brake fluid. You can NOT mix brake fluid and ATF together - it will destroy the top pump. If the fluid is cloudy then someone already mixed the fluids and you are heading for failure.

if you need to change the fluid - check your lines and if the suck - then replace them. convertibletopparts.com makes these as original with properly swedged fittings on them. A new top pump depending on where you buy it runs about $250 with core trade.

 

[Gregory]

Another reliable convertable top business can be found at http://www.convertibleparts.com/ I have found them to be excellent.

Gregory

 

[t-bird-art]

Convertable Top moving slower and slower: 1) Make sure you have a good battery fully charged ( a new battery with 800 Cold Cranking Amps . This Top needs all the power it can get. If it doesn't get the right power, electricl components can/do malfunction.) 2) Fill Hydraulic Top Pump with Transmission Type A Fluid. 3) Start car and work top up/down 3 times ( to get any air out of the hydraulic system). If Top operation is still slow : Oil all the joints on the metal frame of the top with 3 in 1 Oil. Work the oil into the joins as best you can. If Top operation is still slow: Call Tom Chitwood for over-the-phone diagnosis and advice Tel: 384-290-9982. Tom has 30 years experience on all the early Ford & Lincoln convertable tops.

 

[Gregory]

Remember that if there were three cars setting side by side raising their tops, each would go up at a different speed. That could be entirely based on the pump pressure and the condition of the pump. If it is really slow you may need to rebuild the pump.

 

[t-bird-art]

Agree Gregory. Double flared brass fittings are readily available to screw a hydraulic pressure guage to the convertable's hydraulic pump for a 5 second test looking for 300 p.s.i. output when 12v is jumped to the pump. ( Of course cap the line removed from the pump for this test!) We have found the deck and top hydraulic pistons , both deck solonoids and the top solonoid are full of trash. We just finished flushing 2 dozen pistons. Unbelievable , the chunks of black trash that came out of them. We cut open one solonoid to discover the innards were rusted and would not open to let fluid pressure pass to the deck pistons. Of course all this stuff and indeed all parts of the top mechanism should be cleaned , repaired/replaced and bench checked during a decent restoration .

 

[Gregory]

AND... I understand that the orginal cylinders used brake fluid and had rubber seals. Replacement or later version cylinders use neoprene seals and require transmission fluid, and as indicated earler do not mix the two. What a major job to clean and rebuild the system. I am thankful that mine only required a hose, two relays and some TLC.

 

[t-bird-art]

Thought I would add another point to this thread on convertable top operation. The (8) relays are not waterproof. Ford mounted the relays upside down out of necessity . Any water that gets on top of the relays seeps into the relays and corrosion ( rust) ruins the electrical innards. Seal the top of the relays to avoid future prolems. I use Weldbond "Space Age" Sealer/Adhesive. It dries clear, has good bond , is perfect sealer, lasts 10 years+ .

 

[Gregory]

Most of the relay problems result from the connector on the wireing harness not making a good connection as well of course relays filling full of water and rusting. There is an aftermarket replacement, solid state relays for the top systems. They work very well. The best solution is don't drive the car in the rain. Yesterday it was 70 degrees in sunny California, Great Top-down-weather.