Hi, I have a 1960 bird. The car has a transplant 390 from a 1964 model. Just bought car and it looks and runs great. My problem is it has been changed to an alternator and I don't know if its not hooked up correctly. The charging light stays on dimly. I haven't left the drive way but I don't feel its charging. If you lift the battery cable it dies, so I don't think its charging. How do I trace the wires to see if the alternator is hooked up correctly? Thanks for your help.
charging problems
- Thread starter Tadams
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verdejor
Tbird Fanatic
First thought is : Check belt for tension.
if good then, Take the alt out and take it to your fav spot and get it tested (I go to autozone) may be your regulator..cheap insurance--buy one if alt is good and replace. if problem persists, you have a spare.
Lemme know if this doesnt cure the problem and we'll continue diagnosing.
if good then, Take the alt out and take it to your fav spot and get it tested (I go to autozone) may be your regulator..cheap insurance--buy one if alt is good and replace. if problem persists, you have a spare.
Lemme know if this doesnt cure the problem and we'll continue diagnosing.
verdejor
Tbird Fanatic
RobertZpianoman
Active member
- Joined
- Oct 27, 2010
- Messages
- 40
alternator warnings!
to those of you that want to get rid of old 30 amp system in the 1958-1960 bird years... use rubber stretchable tape and tape off those regulator wires (with battery disconnected of course) then do the same to generator wires....(remove generator) always use safety glasses or shield from rust in eye potential under car.....add provided bracket kit to the 352 sized motor as I did (1 hr. labor time so far.)put in the type #G M 10 S I (alternator) available at every auto automotive generator /starter rebuild shop the reason not to get it from local store is that they (alternator shop) have your correct newer pulley required store...and before you leave the store have them put on a nice 13/32 belt width pulley on it's shaft. now that the correct pulley is on alternator shaft line up bracket kit you got from that shop so all of the alternators.. single belt will be in alignment (newer belt # is # napa part 25 - 7420 which is 42 and 5/8 long and 13/32 inch wide as indicated on package rear area...ok (n o w) the electrical ...disconnect negative at battery !! OK SO YOU ALREADY DID THAT RIGHT? So put on a regular( 3 ft. red purchased #06 GUAGE sized battery cable) on the installed already alternator big (metric 10 mm bolt thread) at rear of alternator and tighten the (10 mm hex nut to the cable end.)... connect the other end to the battery positive terminal (a marine type wing nut terminal (replaced at battery terminal positive area) would allow more room at battery positive terminal post.WE CAN CALL THIS "ONE' OF 'TWO' INVOLVED #06 SIZED WIRE CABLES. .........(starter solinoid positive post would already have a 10 guage amber colored original car wire (wire) going from head lite rear of switch terminal... to positive side of starter solinoid terminal contact post.) F Y I . ......then from this starter solinoid positive side BUT (not starter cable side) of solinoid, so, positive side post going with (another C A B L E NUMBER TWO OF TWO INVOLVED same type red 06 guagewire short sized TYPE (one foot long cable ) going to positive post as well. there..... reviewing for saftey... we go from alternator to positive battery... from positive battery... to solinoid positive side post terminal ... done. now the two S M A L L E R (12 guage wires) "TRIGGER DIODE ON "WIRES... coming from the two pin plug at the alternator you simply twist red/white together and butt splice to a single 12 guage red colored wire and connect that to a long routes away from hot surfaces to the "ignition wire" located...way over at the ( ballast on firewall) left of the brake master cylinder. at this( ballast) seek the "wire" that provides the" key on" wire (12 volts)useing your digital volt meter you always use.. and connect there. this KEY WIRE (OUTPUT FROM KEY ON POSITION) WIRE, excites the diode in alternator at( key on position) and you dont have to wait for the motor to( r e v )to 1000 rpm to get alternator to acitivate red# 06 output wire power FROM ALTERNATOR TO BATTERY ... be sure you are not on {coil 9.6 volt wire at ballast side) OF BALLAST TERMINAL..( take off ballast from fire wall to connect alternator trigger wire explained here for ease of your lower back access to it.) now tighten fan belt around fan crank and alternator pulley s n u g but not too tight. and start motor. no regulator lite (g e n ) lite on dash will illuminate as you have lost regulator so connect a under dash volt meter right side of steering post columb for accurate viewing of your power charging monitoring your newer 80 amp. system. volt meter would be connected to lighter wire and when engine is on will read 14.70 volts initially thenn eventually go down to 13.00 volts on the road when alternator gives back the charge rate to lost from starting engine amps. to the battery. DUDE...NEVER EVER TAKE A CABLE OFF POSITIVE POST OF AN ALTERNATOR SYSTEM IF MOTOR IS RUNNING..YOU WOULD ALWAYS BE BUYING NEW ALTERNATORS AS IT FRIES THE DIODE EVERY TIME (old high scool auto shop news. GEN LITE CAN BE RE-CONNECTED THE LITE SOCKET LOOKS FOR A GROUND TO ILLUMINATE IT , IT COMES FROM KEY SWITCH THRU LITE AND LOOKS FOR GROUND TO LITEW UP SEE SERVICE BOOK FOR DIAGRAM OF REGULATOR AND FIND WIRE RING TERMINAL AT REGULATOR THAT YOU WRAPPED IN RUBBER TAPE EARLIER AND FIGURE A WAY TO HAVE THAT WIRE UN GROUND WHEN ALTERNATOR CHARGE RATE GOES TO MORE THAN 12 VOLTS AN ELECTRONICS STORE WOULD HAVE A DEVICE THAT TRIPS OUT AT A SETTABLE RATE OF VOLTAGE LIKE A COMPRESSORS DIAPHRAM UNLOADS AT HIGHER AIR PRESSURE RATE ETC. ANYWAY DONT EVER THINK ABOUT DISCONNECTING A CABLE ON A RUNNING ENGINE ON AN ALTERNATOR SYSTEM AGAIN. ONLY ON GENERATOR SYSTEMS CAN YOU DO THIS.ALSO IF CABLES ARE REVERSED WRONG ON JUMP STARTING A CAR THIS TOO WOLL KNOCK OUT YOUR DIODES OH WELL...
to those of you that want to get rid of old 30 amp system in the 1958-1960 bird years... use rubber stretchable tape and tape off those regulator wires (with battery disconnected of course) then do the same to generator wires....(remove generator) always use safety glasses or shield from rust in eye potential under car.....add provided bracket kit to the 352 sized motor as I did (1 hr. labor time so far.)put in the type #G M 10 S I (alternator) available at every auto automotive generator /starter rebuild shop the reason not to get it from local store is that they (alternator shop) have your correct newer pulley required store...and before you leave the store have them put on a nice 13/32 belt width pulley on it's shaft. now that the correct pulley is on alternator shaft line up bracket kit you got from that shop so all of the alternators.. single belt will be in alignment (newer belt # is # napa part 25 - 7420 which is 42 and 5/8 long and 13/32 inch wide as indicated on package rear area...ok (n o w) the electrical ...disconnect negative at battery !! OK SO YOU ALREADY DID THAT RIGHT? So put on a regular( 3 ft. red purchased #06 GUAGE sized battery cable) on the installed already alternator big (metric 10 mm bolt thread) at rear of alternator and tighten the (10 mm hex nut to the cable end.)... connect the other end to the battery positive terminal (a marine type wing nut terminal (replaced at battery terminal positive area) would allow more room at battery positive terminal post.WE CAN CALL THIS "ONE' OF 'TWO' INVOLVED #06 SIZED WIRE CABLES. .........(starter solinoid positive post would already have a 10 guage amber colored original car wire (wire) going from head lite rear of switch terminal... to positive side of starter solinoid terminal contact post.) F Y I . ......then from this starter solinoid positive side BUT (not starter cable side) of solinoid, so, positive side post going with (another C A B L E NUMBER TWO OF TWO INVOLVED same type red 06 guagewire short sized TYPE (one foot long cable ) going to positive post as well. there..... reviewing for saftey... we go from alternator to positive battery... from positive battery... to solinoid positive side post terminal ... done. now the two S M A L L E R (12 guage wires) "TRIGGER DIODE ON "WIRES... coming from the two pin plug at the alternator you simply twist red/white together and butt splice to a single 12 guage red colored wire and connect that to a long routes away from hot surfaces to the "ignition wire" located...way over at the ( ballast on firewall) left of the brake master cylinder. at this( ballast) seek the "wire" that provides the" key on" wire (12 volts)useing your digital volt meter you always use.. and connect there. this KEY WIRE (OUTPUT FROM KEY ON POSITION) WIRE, excites the diode in alternator at( key on position) and you dont have to wait for the motor to( r e v )to 1000 rpm to get alternator to acitivate red# 06 output wire power FROM ALTERNATOR TO BATTERY ... be sure you are not on {coil 9.6 volt wire at ballast side) OF BALLAST TERMINAL..( take off ballast from fire wall to connect alternator trigger wire explained here for ease of your lower back access to it.) now tighten fan belt around fan crank and alternator pulley s n u g but not too tight. and start motor. no regulator lite (g e n ) lite on dash will illuminate as you have lost regulator so connect a under dash volt meter right side of steering post columb for accurate viewing of your power charging monitoring your newer 80 amp. system. volt meter would be connected to lighter wire and when engine is on will read 14.70 volts initially thenn eventually go down to 13.00 volts on the road when alternator gives back the charge rate to lost from starting engine amps. to the battery. DUDE...NEVER EVER TAKE A CABLE OFF POSITIVE POST OF AN ALTERNATOR SYSTEM IF MOTOR IS RUNNING..YOU WOULD ALWAYS BE BUYING NEW ALTERNATORS AS IT FRIES THE DIODE EVERY TIME (old high scool auto shop news. GEN LITE CAN BE RE-CONNECTED THE LITE SOCKET LOOKS FOR A GROUND TO ILLUMINATE IT , IT COMES FROM KEY SWITCH THRU LITE AND LOOKS FOR GROUND TO LITEW UP SEE SERVICE BOOK FOR DIAGRAM OF REGULATOR AND FIND WIRE RING TERMINAL AT REGULATOR THAT YOU WRAPPED IN RUBBER TAPE EARLIER AND FIGURE A WAY TO HAVE THAT WIRE UN GROUND WHEN ALTERNATOR CHARGE RATE GOES TO MORE THAN 12 VOLTS AN ELECTRONICS STORE WOULD HAVE A DEVICE THAT TRIPS OUT AT A SETTABLE RATE OF VOLTAGE LIKE A COMPRESSORS DIAPHRAM UNLOADS AT HIGHER AIR PRESSURE RATE ETC. ANYWAY DONT EVER THINK ABOUT DISCONNECTING A CABLE ON A RUNNING ENGINE ON AN ALTERNATOR SYSTEM AGAIN. ONLY ON GENERATOR SYSTEMS CAN YOU DO THIS.ALSO IF CABLES ARE REVERSED WRONG ON JUMP STARTING A CAR THIS TOO WOLL KNOCK OUT YOUR DIODES OH WELL...
tbird5866
Well-known member
WOW!! Anyone want to try this??
