57 Tbird Stop Light Question

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OK, so after not seeing where the switch is supposed to be based on the manual (master cylinder) I found it buried in the engine compartment.

New question - how do I even access it to replace it????

It's not like I have ham hands, but can't get in there with pliers or a wrench to grab it.

Thanks!
 
The switch on a bird is always on the frame. On the sedans, the switch is attached to the master cylinder.

I usually use a socket and a long extension. I've removed them from the top and underneath. Make sure that is your problem before trying to remove it. Use a piece of metal (maybe a #8 or #10 machine bolt) to connect both terminals. If the lights go on, than it's the switch. You can use a test light too - one of the wires should be hot. If not, the switch may be ok

While it better to use a deep socket, it can be done with a regular length socket

Remember to disconnect the battery first.
 
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So the problem I'm having is that I have to press down really hard on the pedal to make the lights work. If I don't press all the way down, the lights won't go on, but if I really press down hard, they do. I'm thinking the switch may be starting to go.
 
The switch may be on it's way out. That's the problem with the hydraulic switches. For the average switch, it needs a lot of pressure. There are low pressure switches on the market, so look for one of these. The solution is a mechanical switch. CASCO (and I assume the other Tbird parts suppliers) have a mechanical switch conversion that if adjusted correctly, lights the brake lights almost the instant you touch the brake pedal.

I put the CASCO unit on my 56. Been on the car s number of years with no problems.
 
So I replaced the switch and no major improvement. Just how far down should I have to press the pedal for the stop lights come on? I never really paid attention to it.

Probably going to convert to the mechanical switch....
 
Can't help with that question - as it's a pressure switch, it depends at what point there is adequate pressure.

So I replaced the switch and no major improvement. Just how far down should I have to press the pedal for the stop lights come on? I never really paid attention to it.

Probably going to convert to the mechanical switch....
 
I rigged up a mechanical switch from a motorcycle long ago when I converted to disc brakes. The switch wasn't closing the circuit unless I was braking hard. A new switch didn't help at all. My mechanical switch is a linear type mounted with a long spring on one side and an adjustment bolt on the other. The spring end connects to the dash and the other high on the brake pedal arm. I snipped the wiring from the hydraulic switch connector and pulled them through the dash to connect the new switch. Works like a charm.
 
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