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You should be able to get the proper pedal height with pre-tension on the carb linkage. Can you post some photos of the linkage and carb in place? ~Steve

If the front disc brakes on the '66 are in good condition, they are worth keeping and selling. Lots of folks with earlier flairs use them for upgrading drums. I personally wouldn't pay $3k for the '64. For a car in that condition, the price would be more dependant on rust, not the motor. ~Steve

If you have a non-A/C car (maybe one with A/C, I'm not sure), you can bypass the core just by re-routing the heater hoses under the hood. I replaced my core when I removed my dashboard for restoration. There is access to removed the blower motor from under the hood--a pretty tough job I hear...

Try this thread at the VTCI forum: Vintage Thunderbird Club International ? View topic - Dash cap woes It discusses the same cap you're thinking of. ~Steve

With all that sludge, you might have clogged oil passages in the block itself. Not to mention, 45 minutes running without oil--a good reason to make sure that nothing was severely damaged. ~Steve

No harm in leaving the additional filter in place. I've never seen a tool for removing the fuel pump canister; most people use an adjustable strap or wrench of some sort. ~Steve

Do you have a copy of the manual? Haven't looked in this section of it for a while, but I believe there is an adjustment on the box to set the steering on center. Of course, wouldn't rule out that the 50 year old unit is just past its prime and needs a rebuild. ~Steve

The turn indicator is really a separate piece, but sticking as it is, may be indicative of other issues in the column. You might find out easier to see under the dash if you remove the driver's seat first.

There are two causes I can think of. First, it's possible something broke in the swing-away mechanism--just wear wouldn't result in a sudden failure, I don't think. The second is in the shift mechanism in the steering column. If that is original, or not rebuilt recently, wear in the shifter or...

I've done this on my '64 a couple of times now, but with the steering column in and out. It's much easier with the column out, but can be done either way with patience. If you haven't pulled the driver's seat, you should--it will make accessing the bolts a bit easier. I found that the booster...

Yes, I used Monroes--the part number listed in their catalog for 64 Birds. Mine fit perfectly, front and rear, no cutting or welding involved. ~Steve

I have gas-charged shocks on my '64, but I've read many times that it's not a good idea to compensate for worn springs with air shocks or similar--too much of the load gets transferred to the shock towers, which could fail. New springs are not terribly expensive, though it's a job putting them...

I lied about this. Doing this job yesterday, I was reminded that one of the nuts is attached to a stud (a carriage bolt, actually) that may spin. In my case the stud finally sheared off, after about a 30 minute struggle. Also, keep both front wheels off the ground--you may need to move the...

The inner fender well is ungainly to get in and out, but there are no special tricks or hidden 'gotchas'. You may not have to remove it completely to get the antenna out. I just r&r'd the left side to replace the brake line and plan to replace the antenna on my 64 this afternoon. Unless you...

I'll send you a private message. It looks like I can send just the levers for the controls on that side. ~Steve

Did you remove the clock pod? On my 64, it looks like this: Underneath the clock pod is a bracket that supports the actuators. This photo is of a dash I'm getting ready to install in my car, so items are loose and look crooked, but they are in decent shape: The two levers on the left run...

Depending on what your missing, I might have the replacement parts you need. Mine is a 64, but many parts interchange. Let me know what you're missing. However, unless you have a lot of rain, I'd start with the steering column and shifter. These cars are notorious for wearing out in this area...

The fuse panel is behind the kick plate in the passenger side foot well. The wipers are hydraulic, so something else is going on there. For the others, check the fuses, but don't rule out switches, bulbs and/or relays on these old cars. ~Steve

Chuck, you can safely leave these holes unplugged. ~Steve

I haven't put headers on my 64 but was seriously considering it for a while. When researching, I found that almost everyone who had them was using a 1/4" shim under at least one mount. I can't speak to long-term reliability, but it does appear to be the common solution. I am still amazed that...