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Nice work.

You may need to find a generic bushing based on size, then order from there or a place that sells from that manufacturer. Here's a generic chart that I found. polyurethane T bushings by size

You've responded to a thread that is 5 years old. Surely he's jumped the trunk switch to trigger the trunk solenoid by now.

The "run" terminal on the ignition switch powers the coil (red-green stripe wire to pink resistor wire to red-green strip wire) AND the voltage regulator (green-red stripe). You may be back-feeding the coil through that somehow. Not sure why you have a relay in the circuit. Perhaps to get 12...

https://ctci.org/gilsgarage/Rem57Speed.php

The only advice that I have is to put it out of service before it gets worse. A knock as you described is most likely a rod bearing and you don't want to break a rod. Chances are that the issue was there with the previous owner and he used a heavy weight oil in it to reduce the noise, and sold...

I've never had a 312 but the same principles still apply... The first thing that I would check is your grounding circuit. Old Ford distributors get their ground from the engine through the tightening clap and bolt. Rust or ant-seize compound can increase electrical resistance. Use a VOM and...

Do you have a factory Shop Manual for the car? For my '64, the best reference for that is a diagram of the Throttle Linkage in the Automatic Transmission section.

Good source here. Biggest issue is getting a constant voltage to the unit with key on.

From what you described earlier it's not the starter. If it is an original type starter then the motor shaft extends far into the bell housing in sort of an axle. There is a bearing on the far end that supports the shaft. So it doesn't surprise me that leaving the third bolt in won't loosen the...

The excessive cranking is because the fuel in the carburetor float bowl evaporates in a few days so the fuel pump has to move gas all the way from the tank, fill the carburetor before it can do its thing: supply fuel mixed with air to the engine. The grinding sound is the starter motor not...

Many of the reproduction parts sold today are made in China and generally worthless. A good set of Autolite or Motorcraft points and matching condenser back in the day ran about $5 to $7. Today that same set is made in a Chinese factory and is sold to the US market for several times that...

When you disconnect the vacuum line you need to plug it to keep air from entering the vacuum source. So the way you did it, plug the tube. Going by the book, you should use a tachometer. All that being said, most classic car mechanics set the initial ignition timing "by feel". The main reason...

There are grease fittings all over the front end. However there are also rubber bushings, and they tend to be the loudest. Lubricate those with silicone spray. Work the stuff in between the rubber and the metal.

Fuel pump and filter. There are different size canisters that you can probably find to fit the pump that you have. But be aware that some of the reproductions of these pumps are made in China and are terrible. I've had several fail on a bench test. You are better off getting a good name brand...

Get a new gasket and filter. Coat the gasket with this stuff when you reassemble. https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-permashield-fuel-resistant-gasket-dressing-flange-sealant/

I've installed two in my car. The first was a low pressure (5psi) in-line. I put it in front of the tank above the rear axle, on one side of the differential where there is room. Wired it to "key on", it was very handy as I could "charge" an evaporated fuel bowl and get an instant start no...

The lighter receptacle is a simple device. The body is ground and the hot lead is an insulated button on the bottom. If the lighter works then the receptacle is good. The Amazon plug probably doesn't line up correctly, or the receptacle itself is corroded.

Hancook, Maxxis probably do. Call your local dealer, tell them what you got. They'll likely bend over backwards to service a classic car. They probably have access to the same wholesalers that Coker does.

This is a huge issue with this engine since it puts way too much oil on the top end and drain-back isn't fast enough to keep up. When I rebuilt mine I researched this and found several articles that recommend restricting the oil passages to the heads. After I did that my OE valve covers still...