up grade your '58 to '60 bird elect.system

[RobertZpianoman]

get the one wire alternator that is built into the exact case of the type existing generator( of your car )from jeg's auto .com for ease of exact installation . cost unfortunately is $375.00
or get a $90.00 one wire alternator same output 90 amps. and the pulleys mounted onto that one( by any auto electric shop )and put it in your bird, there now you have 90 amps...replace the #8 yellow wire from batt. + side of starter solinoid going to key switch with a #6 size wire to carry the new power. any way if you're not going to do that just run a #6 wire fused at battery (30)amps. and run it to rear trunk area 17 ft. thru interior at right side of car ...going from battery to (30 amp) fuse holder (fuse at battery) area to right side pass the heater clearing the [ hood release access rubber grommet access hole} on that right side fender (which as the service manual says) is for putting a long flat blade screwdriver thru that hole with the grommet removed from tire area upwards to the actual pull cable end fastener pawl catch trip lever at the right side hood latching mechanisim...just make sure you never block that feature in case pull cable ever breaks it makes inner engine more accessable if there's no obstruction to all that.(get a service manual, lots of secrets for emergency access notes in it) any way wire goes thru fire wall behind glove box down along the right carpet by center hump, and behind the front seat along the rear floor carpet to (lift up the rear seat) with a flat blade screwdriver about 10 inches from the "ends" of seat cushion, at the division of seat and raised floor lip , then get the rear seat cushion and back seat cushion (out) then zip tie the #6 awg .wire to the flat surface right side so that the rear seat can't possibly short against it use a rubber guard over wire duct tape it to back area so cushion will go back again and never .. short from cushion frame smashing it to frame at seat base and rear seat frame ..(I WENT THROUGH THE CENTER AREA AT TRANSMISSION UNIVERSAL TO DRIVE SHAFT FLOOR" HUMP" interior area WINDOW WIRE HARNESS TO UNDER SEAT CUSHION AREA IT CLEARS SEAT THERE.., then push wire thru missing trunk hinge movement to trunk . from this trunk wire total lenth was 17 ft. you can attach (7.5 amp )fuse holders to it and run: a trunk lite and then :a compressor lighter socket (20 amp)holder and many : (fused) 4 post terminal type relays and get those rear lite harness wires identified at left side hinge under carpet area to go to #85 relay terminals (relay coils terminals in) and (out to # 86 ground) for controlling relays for #30 fused 7.5 amp at trunk end of #6 awg, wire relay contacts to operate the output #87 terminal to go to lites as you wish. my concern is to be sure you don't ever touch the yellow wire at the left wire harness in trunk... as it is the fuel sender in your gas tank wire.The " orange" left harness wire could control relay coil for your two right signal stop lites in parallel from #87 out from relay labled "R" (you can re arrange the socket wires "green at those sockets"from inner trunk panels to reflectors at rear of car) and left signal stop lites "green" left harness wire relay same #85 coil in #86 ground relay coil labled "L" for left. this would keep your headlite inner breaker SOURCE TO TRUNK HARNESS WIRES from tripping from the new requested load for dual right and left to lite instead of single reflectors illuminating and so on , even do your running lites to be all four "ON" its up to relays remember low current from harness to relay coils AND #30 in # 87 out for the higher current (to the actual cut out wires going to the rear lites ) at same left harness area. plenty of room to put relays behind inner trunk panel left side verticle . REVERSE LITE FLAT SOCKETS CAN BE INSTALLED INTO REAR OF
REAR LENSES SO ALL FOUR BACK UP LITES WOULD WORK IN THOSE PROVIDED BLANKED OFF HOLES FROM FACTORY. GRAB REVERSE HARNESS WIRE BY LEFT HINGE AREA IDENTIFY AND TAG IT WITH A VOLT METER AND CUT IT...RUN IT TO RELAY LABLED "REV" #85 COIL IN AND OUT #86 TO GROUND , 7.5 AMP FUSE FROM #6 AWG TRUNK WIRE TO # 30 CONTACT IN OUT #87 TO THAT CUT WIRE GOING OUT TO REVERSE NEWER CONNECTED IN PARALLEL REVERSE LITES.... SO 4 REVERSE LITES, FOUR SIGNAL LITES, FOUR RUNNING LITES ALL FROM A #6 FROM FRONT BATTERY...I installed a rear battery and a #4 awg wire to trunk thru a manual 12 volt 90 amp switched by relay dropping out that solinoid at start engine mode to keep 90 amp fuses at each + battery feed from blowing at starter loads. all is well .
thinking satelites can see my tail lites from space now. good free infromation huh?

[fberritto]

I am not very handy at all and it took me 3 hours to get the old generator out! I am totally fine installing the jegs one wire option because it looks like it will just fit right into the same bracket and use the same belt.

There are three wires coming from the old generator- how do I connect it to the Jegs alternator? It looks like it has two terminals?

Sorry in advance dealing with a first timer and total novice here.

[Yadkin]

Originally Posted by fberritto

I am not very handy at all and it took me 3 hours to get the old generator out! I am totally fine installing the jegs one wire option because it looks like it will just fit right into the same bracket and use the same belt.

There are three wires coming from the old generator- how do I connect it to the Jegs alternator? It looks like it has two terminals?

Sorry in advance dealing with a first timer and total novice here.

Your original generator used a remote voltage regulator. The new one has an internal regulator. So the two wires from your regulator may be taped up and abandoned.

You old generator probably put out 30-35 amps, and the new alternator probably puts out close to 100. So to be safe, install a circuit breaker or fusible link on the generator output wire.

[fberritto]

Thank you so so much! So I can just leave the regulator in place. Do I connect the thicker gauge wire that also runs to the regulator to the new alternator? Or do I tape up all three wires and run a new 6 gauge wire from the alternator directly to the battery? And this is the wire that needs the fusible link? What size fuse? Sorry in advance just don’t want to mess it up!

[Yadkin]

Originally Posted by fberritto

Thank you so so much! So I can just leave the regulator in place. Do I connect the thicker gauge wire that also runs to the regulator to the new alternator? Or do I tape up all three wires and run a new 6 gauge wire from the alternator directly to the battery? And this is the wire that needs the fusible link? What size fuse? Sorry in advance just don’t want to mess it up!

What is the amperage of your new alternator? What was the amperage of the old generator?

[fberritto]

Originally Posted by Yadkin

What is the amperage of your new alternator? What was the amperage of the old generator?

90 vs 30 Amps

[Yadkin]

Originally Posted by fberritto

90 vs 30 Amps

Buy one of these https://www.amazon.com/ZOOKOTO-Circu...3395131&sr=8-4 or similar, and mount it where your old regulator was after you remove it.

Print out this diagram and look at where I put numbers 1,2 and 3 in red boxes. Zoom in if you have to.

#1 powers your horn relay. Use the output terminal of the circuit breaker for that wire.
#2 yellow powers the battery. Use the output terminal of the circuit breaker for that wire. It should be at least a 12 gage wire.
#3 yellow-black is your old generator output. Use that for your new alternator output, and connect to the input terminal of the circuit breaker. It should be at least a 12 gage wire.

Use all crimp-on connectors of the proper size.