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Square Birds [1958-1960] Have a Square Bird that you want to showoff or just want to learn more about? Then you've come to the right place. |
This is a discussion on Radials on a '60 Bird? within the Square Birds [1958-1960] forums, part of the Thunderbird Model Years category; I am contemplating putting radials (vintage white walls, Coker or similar) on my '60 Bird, possibly mounted on the Kelsey-Hayes ...
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Radials on a '60 Bird?
I am contemplating putting radials (vintage white walls, Coker or similar) on my '60 Bird, possibly mounted on the Kelsey-Hayes spoked wheels. I have heard that the car needs to be re-aligned for radials, is that true? I want to make this car the most road worthy but retain the vintage look. With all the problems with tires lately does anyone have suggestion on what or where to buy the vintage looking radials that will hold up?
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I'd love to know the same thing. I recently read an article in Invention and Technology magazine about the introduction of radials in the US in the late 60's. It said that the initial ride and handling was poor until the alignment was adjusted for the radials. It didn't say what adjustments were made though! Bias tires have been gone for so long, I doubt that any tire shopss know anymore either.
BTW - I have radials on mine now because I recieved it that way. I don't find the ride or handling objectionable, but I don't have anything to compare to either. I'm planning on replacing them this spring with another set of radials just because I percieve them to be safer and more durable.
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DGS 1960 Convertible Raven Black Red Leather |
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Radial Tip / Experiece----I have found Radials flip off the hub caps easily on early 6o's Ford and GM . Believe the wheels or hubcaps were not designed for the flexable Radials . I put "Plastic Dip" on the little "grippers" on the back of the hubcaps to keep them on.
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I've recently done a bunch of research on this. The real difference is in the toe setting. With the old tires you needed toe in to compensate for the sloppiness of the tires. With radials you want 0 - 1/16" of toe in. If you leave the toe the way it was, your car will wander all over. After learning this and getting my car out on the freeway a bit more, I have found this to be true. It takes a lot of steering (about 15 degrees) to keep it in the lane!
Unfortunately there were other differences that aren't so easy to fix. Radials transmit more road noise (don't know if my car shows that, I always have the top down! :) ), so some sort of isolators were added to the driveshaft to compensate for that. Radials are also much harsher over expansion joints (my car definately shows that) so the suspension bushings were redesigned. My thought now is that I'm going to replace my black wall :yuck: radials with bias ply wide whites. Most of that was from the Spring 2001 issue of Invention and Technology magazine. There is not any hard facts on what exactly to change when using radials. I checked with Coker (no response), Diamond Back Classics (very helpful and interested ion the issue, but didn't really know) and alignment machine manufacturers. Most will tell you there is no difference, which is just not the case. Oh yea, I've had a wheel cover fly off too. :
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DGS 1960 Convertible Raven Black Red Leather |
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