|
Mechanical and Engine Tuning and Mods Found a way to add horsepower by tuning a few parts? Have some questions about Tuning your own engine? Well post them here and learn from other members. |
This is a discussion on '68 T-Bird: Is this engine build a good combination? within the Mechanical and Engine Tuning and Mods forums, part of the Tech Forums category; I have an engine build question. I have a 1968 Thunderbird that I'm kind of restoring, and it has a ...
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools |
|
|||
I probably don't have much advice for you, as I'm not a expert on these engines. I don't know what the difference is between the heads, but they probably won't give you trouble to use them. I kind of think the main difference is in the block (bore and stroke). If you are not trying for speed or performance and your remaned engine is running good, you should be happy with the stock 429. They are a good engine with lots of power already, and you'll probably have lots of other things to worry about on a car that old.
|
|
|||
Used to do a lot of engine rebuilding and a lot of fine tuning but I don't remember the difference in chamber size (if I can find my old casting books I will re post) is so be cautious about compression when you assemble. If me (or anyone else) doesn't come up with the answer talk to some local rebuilders. Old guys preferably. The part I can help you on is the intake and carb. Stock 429's were impressive for the weight of the cars. I just had an old 72 LTD in last week and they push themselves along just fine.Open plane intakes like an Edelbrock Victor are good for high RPM's BUT suck badly on the low end.Don.t shoot yourself in the foot. More low profile dual plane is what you want. They cut the volume down but they give you increased velocity and the rough surface increases turbulance which helps keep the fuel charge stratified. My advise here? Go stock cast iron. Overtime if you go aluminum the water ports will rot out due to electrolysis. Only real gain is less weight. They also tend to make it start harder due to the intake being a heat sink after a hot soak which boils the carb faster on shut down. If you have to go aftermarket k conservative or you will be unhappy. As for the carb, nothing beats an Edelbrock 600 - 625 CFM electric choke for best driving. Easy to adapt, easy to adjust and forgiving as hell. Any more CFM is a waste unless you build the engine for higher airflow. You can only get so much air in. For the Holley guys out there, Yes to better performance as far as the secondaries go. They are a little more responsive and worth a thought. Downside is, messy to adjust, prone to more problems when a little dirt gets near an air bleed, their choke pulloff adjustment in my opinion was not well thought out depending on the model, and of course lean backfires were tough on power valves. If you just wanna jump in the bird and fly....go with the Edelbrock. As far as any autolite carb built in the era...not no...but hell no! The 4100 I have on my 65 was the last 4bbl ford ever made that actually worked. (early 70's were so cool that they used to blow out a pressed in plug in front that made it spray the distributor with gas!....Good times.....) Good luck
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|