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'64 Power window woes

This is a discussion on '64 Power window woes within the Flair Birds [1964-1966] forums, part of the Thunderbird Model Years category; My driver's window is the ONLY one that operates correctly. None of the other windows work with either the switch ...

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  #1 (permalink)   IP: 206.96.98.97
Old 10-01-2002, 12:02 PM
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Question '64 Power window woes

My driver's window is the ONLY one that operates correctly. None of the other windows work with either the switch on the center console or at the seat. Could it be the master lockout switch that the shop manual I have doesn't reference or have in the wiring diagram? There is power to the power window relay and fuse box. Also, the switches and window motors check out good with power applied (used another battery on the floor) using a volt meter.
The master lockout switch is not "letting" me check it without having it wired for operation with the car.
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Old 10-01-2002, 05:26 PM
 
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W,
Sounds like a grounding problem. Apply voltage to the motor and ground the grey wire. If the motor does not operate it is probably faulty. Some of the motors share a common ground.
Joe
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Old 10-02-2002, 10:54 PM
 
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I don't think any of the windows use a common ground. Each is grounded individually. You can check the lock out switch by lifting out the switch panel and unplugging the yellow connector, using the ohm-meter see if the switch passes current at one of it's two positions. Have you by-passed the switches in the console? (At each switch.)
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Old 10-03-2002, 02:35 AM
 
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I am looking at the schematics in my 66 manual and some of the windows do indeed share a common ground-- for instance the power vent and door windows.
Joe
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Old 10-04-2002, 11:13 PM
 
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Reove the "Lock Out" switch from the wiring harness. Use a jumper wire to complete the circuit again in the wiring harness circuit. All windows will now operate if indeed all switches and motors are OK. If any windows don't move, push UP/DOWN on the window. If windows now move , spray all the moving parts , slides and rollers inside the door with white Lithum. Don't use WD-40 or other oils. They will deteriorate the fabric lining on the 2 vertical window channels.
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Old 10-05-2002, 01:31 PM
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Lightbulb

I'm sorry for not coming here and thanking you all for the advise; the job keeps me hopping and traveling about.
Joe V, tbird5866 is correct in that each window motor has its own ground (at the motors). When you wrote "power vent", I think that you are referring to the vent below the rear window. On my 'bird, that is controlled by vacuum, no electricity at all.
t-bird-art, I thought about jumping over the lock-out switch; the situation with that is it looks like I'll have to make another ground for the window switch panel; the two switches share the same ground point, but not the same wire. Also, I haven't taken the center console out, just the top cap; is it secured well enough to make a solid ground or make an electrical short?
I REALLY need to order an eletrical diagram; I'm thinking that this car was a product of somebody who went to "Disney U" and received a B.S. in "Mickey Mouse Productions"
By the way, is power window problems common in T-Birds? It seems that a lot of folks, especially you who replied to me, have what looks like first hand knowledge.
Thanks again, all.
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Old 10-05-2002, 02:41 PM
 
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WT,
I was refering to the power wind wings *vent windows} and door windows on my 66. The imfo I gave came straight from the wiring diagram in my shop manual---the 64 might be different.
Joe
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Old 05-01-2003, 12:09 PM
 
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I too am going through this same thing. When I applied voltage (hooked up the motor to the battery via jumper cables and clipped to screwdrivers) to the passenger side motor, it went up and down fine. When I did the drivers side, nothing at all happened (no sparks, nothing), so I assume it's bad and have another one on order.
My question: When I applied voltage to the rear window motors, both of them sparked at the harness, but there was no motor action. No sound at all from the motor, so I don't think the mechanism is bound up.
Is my test method at fault here? Or is it something else?
Any thoughts would help. Thanks.
Bob
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Old 05-01-2003, 12:41 PM
 
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ONE OTHER NOTE ON WINDOWS. WHEN I REPLACED THE DOOR WINDOW MOTORS ON MY 65, ITESTED THEM WITH THE DOORS OPEN. WHEN I CLOSED THE DOORS, NEITHER WINDOW WOULD WORK. TURNS OUT THAT THE WIRES RUNNING THROUGH THE BODY GROMMET WERE PINCHED AND WHEN THE DOOR CLOSED IT WOULD SHORT OUT THE WIRES. REPLACED THE WIRES AND EVERTHING WORKS FINE NOW!
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Old 05-03-2003, 11:47 AM
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Arrow

El Sol Infinito, when you were checking your window motors, you stated that you had sparks at the harnesses for the rear windows. You might have a short in the harness going to the motors. What I've decided to do is remove all of the motors that aren't operating, do a continuity/resistance check on the motors and wiring, and if need be, disassemble the motors and check the parts individually. Budaman, I thought that I might have a wire/harness getting crimped or being shorted somewhere, so when I can find the time, and get my Mustang out of the garage, I'll get hopping on that theory. Too many projects, too little time!!
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