Leaking fuel filter canister

[Ken in MN]

Hi,
After sitting a while (3-4 days or longer), the gasket on the fuel filter "can" leaks quite badly. Then after sitting a while, it doesn't leak any more. So, the gasket appears to swell when wet and seems to shrink when dry. I use 10% ethanol premium pump gas and was wondering if that could be the issue. If it is, I'd like to install an electric fuel pump somewhere along the fuel line. Has anyone ever done this? It's been going on for a long time and I'm getting kind of tired of it.
Ken

[sseebart]

Yes, others have installed electric pumps. Two I've read about recently: one hung his on a rubber isolator near the tank (to reduce noise), another installed installed an in-tank pump. I'm not sure if they both required return lines. (One did, but it was also part of an EFI upgrade.)

If you decide to go this route, you may need to upgrade your alternator, depending on what kind of load it's already under. Most stock alts these days struggle a bit already with the resistance inherent in vintage wiring. (The alt upgrade comes with other caveats if you're working on a 64.)

The new fuel pumps available for our cars are of terrible quality, so I can't really recommend simply putting in a new mechanical pump. But, if you have the old school pump (not crimped, but held together with screws), it's possible to rebuild it, which may solve your issue.

~Steve

[Yadkin]

I've installed two in my car.

The first was a low pressure (5psi) in-line. I put it in front of the tank above the rear axle, on one side of the differential where there is room. Wired it to "key on", it was very handy as I could "charge" an evaporated fuel bowl and get an instant start no matter how long the car had been sitting. The only negative was noise. In spite of rubber insulators the darn thing was noisy as all heck.

The second was with an upgrade to EFI, and is what I am currently running. It is mounted inside the tank, runs about 100 psi, and has a pressure regulator (to 43 psi) and return line:

• New fuel tank since I had to cut a hole in it. Why spend time and money on an old tank? This also requires cutting a hole in the trunk, up high where the spare tire used to go.
• Tanks, Inc. bracket and pump. Since it's a "vertical" tank the bracket had to be extended (welded). The suction end of the pump has a pre-filter to protect the pump internals.
• 3/8" steel supply (used most of my old one, replaced years earlier).
• Large capacity micron filter.
• FAST EZ EFI throttle body
• Pressure regulator mounted on firewall.
• 1/4" steel return line.
• Russel high pressure hose and fittings between each of the items above.

The EFI controller turns the pump on at "key on" to charge the system, same as I did with my earlier setup. Then it fires the injectors several times (if the engine is cold) to make staring easier. Works flawlessly- like a modern car.

Kinda weird having an electrical line that goes into the fuel tank. That's all part of the Tanks system.

Tanks also has a third threaded hole on the flange that is to be used for a vent. I have that plumbed to a one pint surge tank (mounted as high as possible to drain by gravity back to the tank) and then to a carbon canister from a late model donor. The canister is mounted inside the drivers side front fender and that is purged to the air cleaner. That plumbing is all inexpensive: a combination of low pressure fuel hose (tank to purge). 1/2" fuel resistant air line (sort of like PEX) and various diameters of vacuum hoses. That allowed me to plug the vent hole in my fuel cap and totally seal the system, so I have no more fuel stink in my basement garage.

Only drawback is cost. Not cheap.

[Yadkin]

Originally Posted by Ken in MN

Hi,
After sitting a while (3-4 days or longer), the gasket on the fuel filter "can" leaks quite badly.

Get a new gasket and filter. Coat the gasket with this stuff when you reassemble.

https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...lange-sealant/