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Flair Birds [1964-1966] You have a Fourth Generation Bird or just have some questions about them? Then this forum is for you, check it out. |
This is a discussion on Relays within the Flair Birds [1964-1966] forums, part of the Thunderbird Model Years category; If anyone is considering installing relays, take a look at an excellent article at Relays There are already lots of ...
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Relays
If anyone is considering installing relays, take a look at an excellent article at Relays
There are already lots of relays in these cars and there is no reason why a few more can’t be added. An easy one, and of instant benefit is the headlights. You can even buy complete kits to do it, but the individual components are easy to source. In a nutshell, you use the existing headlight switch and circuit to activate a coil in the relay so that fresh power (usually taken from the solenoid) is fed to the lights. One relay does high beams and another low. The only other thing needed is a type 1 circuit breaker to protect things. Don’t use a fuse because if it blows, no lights. The rheostat to dim my dash lights gave up the ghost, so I used power from the tail lights to energize another relay. I also installed a dimmer from an RV supply house so the bulbs wouldn’t be too bright and a lower voltage will extend the bulb life. Windows are a bit more complicated, but still easy to do, especially the rear. Pick up a triple connector set that matches the one on the motor. Plug the male into the existing chassis harness so that the power from the switch is now routed to the relays, one wire is up and the other down. Use this to activate the coils in the relays. Fresh power (once more fused) is fed through the relay contacts and then back down to the female connector that is plugged into the motor. The existing ground should be looped between the two new connectors. It’s important to use the existing because there is a resistance in the wire so that the voltage to the motor drops as the window reaches the end of its travel. This slows the motor a bit so the window doesn’t slam into the stop. The fresh power for each application should be fused and there should be a diode across the coil in the relay, but that’s about all needed. Let me know if there is any specific info or photos that would help. Terry 64HT |
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Glanced at your headlight schematic and your low beams are pretty simple. You only have two choices at this point assuming the new dimmer is not defective which would be unusual. You either have an open (probably at one of the connection points) in the Red / Black wire OR (Don't laugh at me for saying it) you have 2 burned out lights. (About once every couple of years I run into this so I had to say it). Since the high beams work it can not be a power feed or ground issue, It has to exist from the dimmer out to the lights assuming that all 4 come on when the brights are on. If only the 2 inner come on when the brights are on the low beam bulbs could have a ground issue right at their connector. Hope that helps. I have to live vicariously through your problems as my Bird is in the body shop for a few more months getting hail damage repaired.
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Thanks, Headache Guy,
Found the problem. I have a young guy helping/learning at the same time. Not his first time helping, but. He had the sealed beams on the wrong plugs. He thought the 3rd prong on the one sealed beam was for another app., and plugged into the 2 prong connector. Same with the other, 2 prong into the 3 prong connector. Without checking, I had meters, test lights, and a dimmer switch. I put all new sealed beams in, but thought I might have 2 bad ones. So, in the process of swapping them out, BINGO! Brutal I tell ya! |
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Glad you found your problem, so my answer is obvious. No, there are no relays for the headlights, but I think there should have been. There's a pile of power going through the contacts in the headlight switch, especially on high beam. The older everything gets, the more resistance there is in contact and connections.
Terry 64HT |
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