Upper window weatherstripping

[Nitrous Bob]

I was wondering if anyone could tell me how difficult it is to replace the window weather stripping in a '66 base coupe. I really didn't want to mess with it, but might have to. Looks like it fits/glued into a separate piece of trim.
Thanks!

[Terry64HT]

The bright trim/drip molding is made up of several pieces that don't have to be removed to replace the window weatherstripping. They form a slot that the rubber is glued into. There is a screw on the front pillar, and everything else is adhesive. You can take the old rubber out with a putty knife that fits the slot and clean it up. The only problem might be at the rear where the weatherstrip goes down past the quarter window. Once the old rubber is out and everything cleaned up, it's just a matter of gluing the new in with something like 3M adhesive. Getting the back end down behind the quarter window without getting adhesive onto everything can be a trick. I did mine when the windows were out so I can't offer any advice here. Just make sure it's all lined up and there are no sags or stretched places and hold it in with masking tape till it dries.
One of the easier weatherstrip installations you'll do.
Hope this helps
Terry
64HT

[Nitrous Bob]

Thanks, Terry,
I getting ready to overall paint this 'bird and didn't want to mess with the weather stripping. But, I think if it's not a bad job, might as well do it. My luck, later on, the putty knife would slip and a huge scratch would appear in the paint! Brutal!

[Terry64HT]

I found that by cutting the weatherstrip into smaller pieces with a knife as I worked my way along, it was a pretty safe, easy job. I haven't had any leaks since I replaced it and aligned the windows, even with the hose pointed at the area.
Good luck
Terry
64HT

[Nitrous Bob]

Thanks, Terry,
I'll remember that when I gouge the paint!
Have you ever had the outside drip molding off? Do I have to pull the weather stripping? I was going to try and do the roof without pulling the molding, but, it will be easier and a nicer job with it off.
Thanks again

[Terry64HT]

The brite work, that is the outside drip molding and weatherstrip channel are two pieces that are held on by screws that are underneath the weatherstrip. Also the drip molding is underneath the weatherstrip channel. First the weatherstriip, then the screws underneath, then the weatherstrip channel and last the drip molding. Everything is sealed to the body with butyl tape.
Once I had all the screws out, I used a heat gun to soften the sealant then gently pulled and pried off the trim.
When replacing, bite the bullet and buy some butyl tape. It's usually called glaziers tape and is available at many large glass supply places. I bought 3 rolls of 1/4 by 1/2 inch on the internet for about $20. Doing the side rails, windshield and rear window trim took about 2 1/2. It's far superior to using adhesive because it has body to it so that you get proper alignment. An adhesive bead will just squish down. You can stretch the tape before application to get any thickness you want, or build up a couple of layers. It's what was used at the factory.
Hope this helps
Terry
64HT