Brake bleeding question and fluid leaking from rebuilt caliper inlet

[my66cruiser]

Good afternoon, I installed a rebuilt caliper on my '66 at the left front. I have two questions that I am sure someone here can answer:

1) When I had the old caliper off, all of the fluid drained out. Will a standard brake bleed at all four wheels work now that my master cylinder has emptied? I don't want to remove the master to bench bleed if I don't have to.

2) On the brake line fitting with the two copper washers, I have a leak at the inlet with the new rebuilt caliper where I did not have one before. The new threads appear to be tight but I am afraid of stripping the threads from over tightening. Right now I have teflon on there to stop the leak but this is hardly a permanent solution. I have sent an inquiry to Raybestos to see what they recommend as well. Also, I used the two new copper washers and not the old ones.

Thank you and have a great summer.

[tb65m66]

You should be able to do a standard bleeding. Just be patient to be sure all the air is removed.
Did you make sure one washer was on each side of the banjo fitting? It's easy to put both on the same side and guaranteed to leak

Hope this might help get you back on the road

[my66cruiser]

Hi tb65m66,

Good point about the copper washers. I did make sure one was on each side. I think I just did not tighten it enough. Raybestos, the caliper rebuilder, said about 30-35 ft lbs. should be alright.

I am patient so I will not rush the bleeding. Good to know the master does not have to be bench bled. I know it can be done on the car but you have to disconnect the lines. I'd rather just take the time while keeping everything connected.

Thanks for your help tb65m66.

[my66cruiser]

Okay, just to wrap up this thread:

1) First off I did not have to bench bleed the master cylinder after the system totally lost all fluid in the master cylinder when I disconnected the left front brake line. Everything worked out well bleeding the brakes the usual way - right rear, left rear, right front, left front. My neighbor came over and pressed the brake pedal as I worked the bleeders. Also, it pays to shoot the bleeders with PB Blaster or similar product the night before.

2) The leaking brake line banjo bolt was resolved by flipping the copper washers and tightening the bolt to proper torque. I suspect that my initial leak was from either not tighenting the banjo bolt enough or the fluid was coming from the bleeder and not the banjo connection. Either way the system has worked well for a few drives so far and no leaks to be found. So for the record, the Raybestos rebuilt caliper is working well. I had a bit of a clearance issue between the wheel and the brake pad hold down clip. But I bent the clip so it "hugs" the caliper housing closer now it barely rubs.

Next step will be all new rotors and pads - I LOVE THIS CAR!!!!! I ALWAYS HAVE A HOBBY. Kidding of course, I truly do love this car and little by little she will get to a point where there won't be much to do but normal maintenance and no more restoring.

[Rusty1]

Hi, 66cruiser,
Just for future reference you can eaisly anneal the copper washers and make 'em soft again by heating them with a propane torch or even on the stove (gas of course) till they are cherry red then quench in water. The bleeding of the calipers or cylinders can be an easy 1 man job if you get and install "speed bleeders". They look like the usual bleeder valve but internally they have a check ball so no air gets back into the caliper/cylinder. You just loosen the valve and pump the pedal 5 or 6 times and then tighten the valve.
You run a tube to a container of fluid as you do conventionally. A set of 4 valves will run about $30.00 from CPP ( classicperform.com ).
Enjoy your ride,
LB

[my66cruiser]

Hi Rusty1, Thanks 4 the advice about the washers. I have seen the speedbleeders ON LINE. They seem like a good idea. I wonder how reliable the internal checkvalve is. But they are easy enough to replace if they get stuck. Safe cruising to you.