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Flair Birds [1964-1966] You have a Fourth Generation Bird or just have some questions about them? Then this forum is for you, check it out. |
This is a discussion on Numbers matching? within the Flair Birds [1964-1966] forums, part of the Thunderbird Model Years category; I got my 66 tbird convt with 428 up and running this past weekend after sitting since 1983. Engine runs ...
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Numbers matching?
I got my 66 tbird convt with 428 up and running this past weekend after sitting since 1983. Engine runs smooth and now the resto fun begins.
The engine is low on compression and oil pressure, not unexpected for 108,000 miles. I also have a rebuilt stock 428 from another 66 tbird that I am considering swapping. My question concerns numbers matching. I know this is important with the chevy crowd, but I was under the impression that fords didnt number match from the factory. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks |
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I got this info from the other Tbird forum I belong too.
Numbers matching" typically meant that the engine was stamped with a portion of the car's VIN in order to tie the car to the driveline. In Ford's case, this wasn't done during the '50s and '60s until the '68 model year, but that's beyond the point of this response. The closed you can come to "numbers matching" for a Ford product is comparing assembly and component dates. Components of a car can be evaluated against its final assembly date to narrow down whether or not they may have been orignially installed it. Date codes in castings, date codes in glass and sheet metal, assembly date codes stamped into engines, assembly date codes stamped into ID tags for transmissions and rear axles typically should not be more than a few weeks older than the assembly date on the data plate, and certainly shouldn't be after the final assembly date. If a date code on a component part is significantly outside of the window of car's production timeframe, chances are it's a replacement part from another car. But like with anything else there are exceptions, such as a large run of glass manufactured and stockpiled several months before being needed at final assembly. For major components which have an assembly date stamped into them, like engines, transmissions and rear axles, the closer the date is to the build date of the car the more confidence a person should have that it's original, but the exact time frame of when the component was assembled versus the car's assembly date would need to be studied. In short, though, it would not be a positive match. Only knowing the car's history from the date it left the assembly plant to the present time could give a relatively certain degree of confidence that the engine or whatever is original to the car. Bob.
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i have a similar problem in my '66. my donor car is a 428, but the car im using originally had a 390. i dont want to swap VIN plates becaue that would mess with the paint and everything else. 390's and 428's look almost indentical. how can i prove to people i truly have a 428?
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390-428
I'd say keep good documentation on the rebuild as a 428. I also took a lot of pictures. Once it’s in the car it’s really hard to tell them apart. Easiest way to tell is by looking at the flywheel for the balancing weight. Make sure you use the 428 flywheel. Don’t get it mixed up with the 390. It will fit but the engine will shake real bad.
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The 428 has a large counter weight just behind the front balancer.
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