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Flair Birds [1964-1966] You have a Fourth Generation Bird or just have some questions about them? Then this forum is for you, check it out. |
This is a discussion on Ballast Resistor Location within the Flair Birds [1964-1966] forums, part of the Thunderbird Model Years category; Even though I have electronic ignition, can someone please tell me the location of the Ballast Resistor? The book only ...
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Ballast Resistor Location
Even though I have electronic ignition, can someone please tell me the location of the Ballast Resistor? The book only says it is in the engine compartment with a cover.
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Ok, so trolling around the internet has led me to believe that the 65 models may or may not have these resistors? If so, they would be in a brown colored fiberglass cover mounted to the right inner fender just behind the battery.
So if this is true, and there is no resistors in my car, what would take their place? I am absolutely horrible when it comes to electrical stuff! I'm thinking of just replacing the distributor, getting the pertronix conversion kit and a flame thrower and hoping something happens. Anyone have any reasonably priced good distributors in mind? I have only found 2; a $40 rebuild from kragen, or a $230 Mallory. Kragen has a single vaccuum, and a double vaccum. Which should I get if I go that route? Thanks! |
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Wow, this is getting pretty mundayne talking to myself :)
Well, I figured out that I don't have the transistorized ignition, so I guess I don't have any ballast resistors in my car. And the distributor on my car is a single vacuum type. Now is it a single or dual points system? I don't know. I'm also guessing that the correct pertronix Ignitor kit I need is part# 1281, and I should also get the 40011 (black-oil filled) flamethrower coil. SO, without the ballast resistors, I should have a red wire going from the coil straight to the ignition switch, correct? And the ignition switch is just a fancy name for where you put the key in right? |
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Original equipment for the Thunderbird was a single point system, which can easily be verified by looking under the distributor cap. How many point sets do you see? The original equipment also used a resister wire to reduce the voltage at the points in the "run" condition. That is the reason why you need to run the red wire to the ignition switch - the place where you put the key..
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Is the information you are supplying here from instructions from Pertronix? There has been such discussion on the Digests about where the 12 volt source should be that I thought 12 volts would be required at the coil. You seem to be saying otherwise..
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I have the ignitor instructions in front of me and it says the red and black wires go to the coil, and the remainingh wire goes from the distributor to the ignition switch (for cars without Ballast Resistor).
However, in the FAQ section, it says: "How do I correct a low voltage problem?" "First, if you have an external ballast resistor, connect the red ignitor wire to the ignition wire prior to the ballast resistor. Second, if you do not have a ballast resistor you must locate a 12-volt source that is controlled by the ignition switch to connect the red ignitor wire to." The power window relay on the firewall should be a "on the key" 12V source, right? Where does your red wire from the Ignitor go Joe? |
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So you're saying that you should assume you have a low voltage problem (according to pertronix) and go ahead and connect the red wire from the Ignitor to a 12V power source, right?
Where did you connect the red wire exactly? |
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your car does not have a low voltage problem your pertronix ignitor needs 12 volts the reason your car runs better at higher rpm is the alt. is helping to raise voltage at idle its not putting out as much. it is normal for your coil to be lower than 12 volts. i conneted red wire to 12 volt under dash that worked with key on this forum i saw power window relay on firewall should have have12 volt keyed source must come on with key
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I have not seen any mention of this...shouldn't your 12 volt source be there during cranking? Is there power to the window safety relay while cranking? I would think not !
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