Sounds great!...for a few seconds

[SCUMDOG]

Try this: take out No.1 spark-plug, get a small piece of newspaper and screw it into a wad a little bigger than the threaded section of the spark-plug.

Take this wad and screw it a small ways into the spark-plug hole, firmly but not TOO tight.

Get into the car, twist the key and 'bump' the motor over one compression at a time, eventually you SHOULD here a small 'pop!' as the newspaper 'plug' blows out, that's when your just about on TDC.

You may end up a few degrees past TDC but at least you'll know that if you turn the motor over backwards to get the timing marks lined up you'll be on TDC.

Hope I made this clear!!!

[Harley Eaton]

Joe Van Datta suggested that you hold your thumb over the number 1 spark plug hole till you feel the compression. You responded "Can't do it by myself Joe, or I would. I just put a rod into the plug hole and watched it go up until it just barely started to go back down." You can do it by yourself using a remote starter button which you activate under the hood. Been there, done that.

[bowserhound]

Now I am 99% sure it is correctly timed after a long hard trial period. I just finished rebuilding the carburetor yesterday and flooded it to let it sit overnight to expand the gaskets. i can't wait to get home today to try once again to hear some life from my Bird. If this doesn't work, I'm at a complete loss.

Wish me luck!

[SCUMDOG]

Keep us posted!

BTW You did check to see you weren't flooding the engine didn't you ??

Had a similar type of problem years ago - engine started, ran for a few seconds and died - float was damaged and too low and the fuel pump forced waaay too much fuel into the engine.

[bowserhound]

yup, I had to keep pumping the gas just to keep it running. While rebuilding the carb, it seems a few adjustments were off. We'll see...

[SCUMDOG]

Originally Posted by bowserhound

yup, I had to keep pumping the gas just to keep it running. While rebuilding the carb, it seems a few adjustments were off. We'll see...

Sound like it's starving for fuel.
Is the accelerator pump on the carb working o.k.?
Is the choke working o.k.?
Is there any uncapped vacuum fittings?
Is the float level correct?

[bowserhound]

Didn't get a chance to turn her over last night (lol), but the accelerator pump looked fine, can't tell if the choke was performing properly without running the engine for a while - but I did adjust it, no uncapped vacuum fitting that I know of, and I did adjust the float level; I think it was a little low.

The only thing I wasn't sure of while rebuilding the carb was setting the choke plate gaps for the primary and secondary. I couldn't get both measurements at the same time. It's one or the other, or in my current case, in between.

[SCUMDOG]

Originally Posted by bowserhound

Didn't get a chance to turn her over last night (lol), but the accelerator pump looked fine, can't tell if the choke was performing properly without running the engine for a while - but I did adjust it, no uncapped vacuum fitting that I know of, and I did adjust the float level; I think it was a little low.

The only thing I wasn't sure of while rebuilding the carb was setting the choke plate gaps for the primary and secondary. I couldn't get both measurements at the same time. It's one or the other, or in my current case, in between.

Remind me again what Make/model of carb you have.
Most carbs have the secondary plate completely shut at idle - having it open even a little will cause a lean mixture at idle.

[bowserhound]

Well, I had the same results once everything was back together. Only this time, I heard what I think is a leak from between the intake manifold and the block. The Edelbrock performer directions say to not use gaskets, just high temp sealant. I'm not too sure now. Regardless, I'm going to dismantle and reassemble again using gaskets and sealant.

[dans65]

Please tell me this isnt the same problem from September, I believe I mentioned then about not getting the proper sealing when using an edelbrock intake and having the exact same problem you are speaking of now.

[bowserhound]

Dismantled to the intake again, and I think I found the problem. A small section right behind the accelerator linkage barely had any sealant and was very moist.

[erpman]

What type of engine would this be to NOT use a gasket?

Rodney

[bowserhound]

I called Edelbrock and asked why they say not to use gaskets on the front and rear seals, and they said it was because every engine surface was different, and sealed differently. Go figure.

I'm getting some industrial high temp black sealant from a friend that works at a dealership. I guess they use it on oil pans in japanese cars that run cross country, and is really great stuff. Should have the engine assembled again sometime next week.

[erpman]

But a gasket would HELP fill in those irregularities.

Yes there is sealant that will replace a gasket. Heck they even make glue now that GM uses to glue their door hinges on instead of bolts.

I've worked on many 60's 289's and they always recommend to not use the cork gaskets on the intake. I have always used them and never had a leak. So they don't always know best. Heck why do the continue to supply the darn things if they are such junk.

Rodney

[bowserhound]

I still might end up using them, but the ones I have are quite thick and may prevent everything from lining up. I'm going to do a dry fit this weekend.