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Sounds great!...for a few seconds

This is a discussion on Sounds great!...for a few seconds within the Flair Birds [1964-1966] forums, part of the Thunderbird Model Years category; The bat. to coil test is very quick and easy -- let us know when you make it. Where is ...

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  #16 (permalink)   IP: 67.119.106.98
Old 09-14-2006, 03:03 AM
 
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The bat. to coil test is very quick and easy -- let us know when you make it.
Where is Niles Ca. Can't find it on the map.
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  #17 (permalink)   IP: 67.119.106.98
Old 09-14-2006, 03:19 AM
 
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test

The bat. to coil is a quick and easy test -- let us know when you make it.
Where is Niles, Ca. Can't find it on the map.
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  #18 (permalink)   IP: 64.157.7.133
Old 09-14-2006, 12:16 PM
 
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It's in Fremont, I'm sure you know where that is Joe.

I was going to do the test yesterday but couldn't find any wire around the garage for some reason. I'm picking some up on the way home today.
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  #19 (permalink)   IP: 68.192.174.1
Old 09-15-2006, 04:30 PM
 
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Don't know if the car would even run at all, But if you had the coil off could you have reversed the two wires?
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  #20 (permalink)   IP: 64.157.7.133
Old 09-15-2006, 06:32 PM
 
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Bob, When I removed the coil from the intake, I just moved it to the side. The only wire removal was the clip that attaches to the distributor wires.

Although, I wonder if the ground wire from the ignition to the coil is having issues with the alluminum manifold? Maybe I should run the ground wire to the frame? It's currently attched to the coil bracket, which isn't that big. Don't know if the cast iron manifold had better grounding capabilities.
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  #21 (permalink)   IP: 207.200.116.199
Old 09-15-2006, 08:07 PM
 
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Browser: According to Ford, the 353862-S is an "E" clip used two places. One:on the kick-down rod at the Accelerator and kick-down bracket (on the intake). Two: on the carburetor rod at the accelerator bracket (on the firewall). I would expect to buy these at the local auto parts store. However, I do have one I can send if I have your mailing address. ([email protected])
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  #22 (permalink)   IP: 68.192.174.1
Old 09-15-2006, 09:44 PM
 
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Aluminium should be a better condutor than cast, so i doubt thats it. I guess trace your steps on everything you touched, Maybe you even knocked a wire loose. Double check your timing etc. Good luck keep us posted.
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  #23 (permalink)   IP: 67.119.106.180
Old 09-19-2006, 04:49 PM
 
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won't run

Did you get her to run yet?
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  #24 (permalink)   IP: 67.119.106.94
Old 09-27-2006, 04:01 PM
 
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Hey Brian, did you ever get it to run?
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  #25 (permalink)   IP: 64.157.7.133
Old 09-27-2006, 04:21 PM
 
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Still trying to time the darn thing. No points, no condenser, Crane Cams ignition box (never used before). Finding TDC and crossing fingers.
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  #26 (permalink)   IP: 210.55.80.75
Old 09-28-2006, 06:06 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bowserhound
Still trying to time the darn thing. No points, no condenser, Crane Cams ignition box (never used before). Finding TDC and crossing fingers.
Make sure you're not a 180 degrees out when checking your bottom pulley for the timing mark, easily done!! (and you end up actually at BDC instead of TDC!)
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  #27 (permalink)   IP: 64.157.7.133
Old 09-28-2006, 01:02 PM
 
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Yeah, I found that out the hard way Scumdog. My pulley is old enough not to have any visable timing marks, so it's just making things more interesting.

I pulled the #1 plug and had that at TDC (or so I thought). I'm going to crank the pulley until the rotar is facing the #1 plug wire on the distributor and cross my fingers again.
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  #28 (permalink)   IP: 67.119.118.169
Old 09-28-2006, 01:36 PM
 
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Hold your thumb over number one cylinder until you feel compression and the rotar pointing at number one.
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  #29 (permalink)   IP: 64.157.7.133
Old 09-28-2006, 03:16 PM
 
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Can't do it by myself Joe, or I would. I just put a rod into the plug hole and watched it go up until it just barely started to go back down.
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  #30 (permalink)   IP: 207.200.116.199
Old 09-28-2006, 09:47 PM
 
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Remember .. the piston comes to the top twice for each cycle. That's why they call it a "four cycle" engine. Also means the timing mark will come to the pointer twice per cycle. Make sure the piston is at the top on the firing stroke when the mark comes to the pointer.
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