Remote Top Switch

[boaterbob]

While trouble shooting a problem with my 66 Rag Top, I was wondering if anyone ever made a remote switch. Instead of having my wife press the up down button in the car could there be something hooked up to the wires in the back? I know you would have to bypass the nuetral safety relay in the front For the top down cycle. Any ideas?

[Harley Eaton]

No need to bypass the neutral safety switch. I would NOT suggest you do that. The Lincoln convertibles had a key operated switch in the rear quarter panel to operate the top. You could use Lincoln parts for this on a Thunderbird. Some have put a switch inside the gas cap door. Not a good idea. Gas fumes can be found there, so don't add an accidental electric spark.

[Harley Eaton]

Lincoln parts are available from Baker Auto, Putnam, CN.(860-928-9228)

[Harley Eaton]

Sorry. That's Putnam, CT.

[boaterbob]

Originally Posted by Harley Eaton

Sorry. That's Putnam, CT.

Thanks for that ifno about the Lincoln switch, Harley. I was also thinking i might be able to pull Red, Yellow and Violet wires from the console switch to the trunk. At that point mount a toggle switch that works in two directions, This way i could trouble shoot the system from that point without a helper. Let me know your thoughts on that idea. I also plan to call the lincoln parts place.

[Harley Eaton]

I see your point about the switch. Where did you plan to place it? The Lincoln switch works in both directions.

[boaterbob]

I planed to mount it near the pump or maybe a plug in that area so i could i could have the switch on a long cord that i could just plug in when needed. Kinda like the remote starter switches

[phjohnso]

When I was troubleshooting my convertible tops on different tbirds I have had I just made up a jumper wire, it is really simple. Just buy some 10 guage wire at autozone with some crimp on spades and a crimp on aligator clip. the aligator clip goes on the the tail of the Y and the spades at the top of the Y. All you do is remove the boot from the circuit you want to operate the stick the 2 spade ends into the boot and then touch the aligator clip to the powerbar that attaches the relays all together. This will work the circuit for you without needing a switch. Another alternative is to replace all the relays with a moderm replacement relay system that I put in my 65 convertible and it worked super great. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

sincerely

pj

[Harley Eaton]

BoaterBob: You may have a good plan, BUT your mounting would require the deck lid be open or you go in through the back seat. Seems like you would be further ahead to place your switch where it would be accessable if you couldn't get the deck lid open. As with the Lincoln switch(which is key operated).

[tbirdman]

Originally Posted by Harley Eaton

BoaterBob: You may have a good plan, BUT your mounting would require the deck lid be open or you go in through the back seat. Seems like you would be further ahead to place your switch where it would be accessable if you couldn't get the deck lid open. As with the Lincoln switch(which is key operated).

I've done a couple of projects that might help you.

Manual switch controller

Not perfect as sometimes the limit switches are in play.

Here's a wireless remote I installed. I do have soem safety stuff added like the wheel has to be in the far right position.

Wireless remote

I also added wireless control for the locks and windows. Pretty funny when you make the windows go up while someone is looking inside your car :hurray

[Harley Eaton]

tbirdman: I've looked at your "Manual Switch Controller".
I may not understand the system, but it seems to me that you are still relying on working relays. More often than not, I find a non-working top to be a failed relay.
If possible, a better system would bypass the working and non-working relays. - - At least to unlock and open the deck lid.

[tbirdman]

Originally Posted by Harley Eaton

tbirdman: I've looked at your "Manual Switch Controller".
I may not understand the system, but it seems to me that you are still relying on working relays. More often than not, I find a non-working top to be a failed relay.
If possible, a better system would bypass the working and non-working relays. - - At least to unlock and open the deck lid.

I agree. So thinking about this a little harder, the better system would be to use additional relays to bypass the existing relays and also limit switches to activate the different pumps and motors. I've got the new relay system, so I don't have the relay problem. Could make for an interesting winter project.

[Harley Eaton]

Why not use a system that would use no relays? Just supply powetr directly to where needed to operate solenoids or motors.

[4-5-6-birdman]

Originally Posted by Harley Eaton

Why not use a system that would use no relays? Just supply powetr directly to where needed to operate solenoids or motors.

Relays are used or required for electrical devices that have unusually high amounts of input or steady state current. If you plan on designing circuits to run pumps and motors and will not be using relays you better use some herkin big gauge low impedence wire and keep several charged fire extinguishers handy. The primary reason why relays on pumps and motors fail is because they have a serious job to do in terms of switching high current loads. My best suggesiton would be to get a catalog or go a website like Newark Electronics and spec out a higher end relay. You can get some really sweet ones with gold plated contacts that will probably outlast the crap that Ford specd out by 4 or 5 to 1. The downside is they won't be cheap. I see that several aftermarket guys are offering solid state panels now. The downside with them would be repair if there is a failure. Good Luck!

[tbirdman]

Originally Posted by 4-5-6-birdman

Relays are used or required for electrical devices that have unusually high amounts of input or steady state current. If you plan on designing circuits to run pumps and motors and will not be using relays you better use some herkin big gauge low impedence wire and keep several charged fire extinguishers handy. The primary reason why relays on pumps and motors fail is because they have a serious job to do in terms of switching high current loads. My best suggesiton would be to get a catalog or go a website like Newark Electronics and spec out a higher end relay. You can get some really sweet ones with gold plated contacts that will probably outlast the crap that Ford specd out by 4 or 5 to 1. The downside is they won't be cheap. I see that several aftermarket guys are offering solid state panels now. The downside with them would be repair if there is a failure. Good Luck!

You can pick up some Bosch relays at www.partsexpress.com for about a $2 each each. These are 12V 30A relays. OK next winter I'll think about it :rolle