Brake Booster / Master Cylinder Replacement Question

[El Sol Infinito]

I'm getting set for spring and I'm going to get the brakes up to par before doing any real driving.
I know that I need a new booster. Napa has direct replacements listed for 115.00 w/o the master cylinder and 125.00 w/ a new single reservoir master cylinder. Seems like a no brainer to me, I should just by the whole unit w/ the master, right?
Well, if I'm going to do that, why don't I replace the setup with a dual reservoir master for safety? I'm wondering if I could just bolt on the Napa booster/master setup for the 1967 t-bird and do a little replumbing of the lines?
Anyone out there done a dual master cylinder conversion and want to share their method/techniques?
Is what I have in mind at all feasible?
Thanks in advance for any help.

[SIXTSIX]

Hi Bob...
I have a 66 and contemplating the same project. Right now I have the motor out and doing some detailing. It would be a good time to update my brake system if possible. Would 'preciate any info you might recieve.

........Thanx sixtsix (mike)

[tbirdman]

Originally Posted by SIXTSIX

Hi Bob...
I have a 66 and contemplating the same project. Right now I have the motor out and doing some detailing. It would be a good time to update my brake system if possible. Would 'preciate any info you might recieve.

........Thanx sixtsix (mike)

I thought 65 and 66s had dual MC already. Here's info on the 64 conversion to a dual.
http://www.tbirdranch.com/64dualmc.html

[jer-wright]

Hello,

My 1965 T-bird has a single resevoir set-up. I have been told that the 1967 dual MC will bolt right up as well. Of course the line work will still have to be done. Anyone tried this route?

Jeremy

[El Sol Infinito]

I ended up just going with the Napa single reservoir master and Napa's rebuilt replacement booster. Instead of going the $125.00 combo setup, I went for the separate components, as they looked a little better to me. I think it was about $175.00 altogether. Put everything in last weekend and it seems to have solved all of my problems.
The brakes feel so much better, but a buddy of mine says they may still be a bit spongy, so I need to bleed the lines which I'll do when I re-shoe and spring the system in the next few weeks.
The booster was a bitch to get out, because you have to stand on your head under the dash. I ended up taking my drivers seat out which made it a TON easier. I also ended up taking out the diagonal braces between the fender and the cowl to get more room to work in the engine bay. Putting the whole system back together was a snap. I bench bled the master like several websites (Cardone in particular) instruct and that was that. I put the lines and fitting back on, didn't use any thread sealer or the like. I was sort of suspecting a small leak or something because of it, but so far after a hundred miles or so, it's bone dry around everything and the fluid level is the same.
BTW, the Napa booster has an adjustable length push rod. I left mine the default length, and it seems to be correct. There may be a little and not very frequent groaning from the master cylinder/booster area when applying the brakes at low speed when the car is cold, but that may also be something else, because I had the same noises before doing the work. Any suggestions would be appreciated on that angle.
ATTENTION: Make sure that when you have your booster out, you check that lower steering column bushing. Mine was gone and so I had a good opportunity to replace it when I did this brake work. I don't see any other way to get to that bushing without taking out the master and the booster. It's a $10 part and its improved my shifter feel 100%.
Good luck.

[Harley Eaton]

All the brake boosters for Flairbirds have adjustable push rods and should be adjusted per the shop manual.

[pontiac]

I put a master cylinder from a 1968 tbird on my 66. Perfect fit but had to modify the shock tower brace and buy a few fittings. Brakes work great.

[J Sevanick]

This forum confirms my desire to change to a dual MC on our 64 TBIRD. I see that the 73 Mustang unit has worked for some and looks like the fix for me. Before I do this is there any other experience with other units that I should consider. :rolle Any and all input greatly appreciated.

[boaterbob]

All the brake lines should be double flair with a seat they bottom out on when you re plumb, You shouldn't need any thread sealer. Be sure Parking brake is slacked off for rear brake adjustment or you may get a spongy brake

[J Sevanick]

Thanks. Looks like its time for fitting shopping. At least in the Phoenix area we have many vendor choices.

I have a single res MC on mine I got from Drax (I think) and it has a BLEED screw on the front I DID NOT bench bleed my MC. Can I do it while it is on the car or do I have to jsut bleed the hell out of my brakes?
I picked up some bleeder vavles for the wheels. I will see how those work in the coming week or so. www.speedbleeder.com

[65tbirdconv]

Well I have bench bleed my MC. Rebleed the brakes again, still get a pedal to the floor when I hit the brakes. Booster bad?? The booster is new, less then 500 miles on it.

[dans65]

Hows the master? If the rear seal goes it will leak but you wont see it. It will go into the booster. Have someone apply the brakes and you listen under the hood. If you hear a gurgling noise its the master.

[65tbirdconv]

MC is new also. I dont think it is leaking. When I had it off the other day it was done dry (booster also) plus I have not been loosing fluid.

[dans65]

If all ls new and there are no leaks I would check the booster push rod adjustment. Do you have brakes at all?