Bypassing Transisitorized Ignition on '65

[Yoda]

My 1965 convertible came with the transistorized ignition. When I purchased the car, a prior owner had partially bypassed the system. Some wires were connected, others were not so I've always imagined that the original setup must have been causing problems. Unfortunately, I don't fully understand how the modified system was rigged (no condensor, original transistorized-only coil, negative post on coil had a permanent ground, lead from points went to a positive connection).

I recently decided to install some modern Petronix ignition components (wires, FlameThrower II coil, & Ignitor II electronic ignition). For this to work, one needs a more traditional ignition setup. For this to work optimally, one needs to also bypass the ballast resistor setup.

Here's what I did:
1. disconnect remaining wires from transistorized ignition
2. at the old transistorized ignition site, connect red/green ignition wire to blue/white wire (which was connected to the positive side of the coil)
3. disconnect the permanent ground on the negative side of the coil
4. hook the positive/negative leads from the Ignitor II to their respective posts on the coil

Now whenever the ignition switch is on, the power is feed to the positive terminal on the coil. Not sure exactly how the Ignitor II works, but I imagine if the rotor is rotated to a firing position, there is also constant juice to the coil (or maybe the Ignitor II takes care of just sending a single burst of juice to the coil and then breaks the circuit).

Now to my question:
1. does anyone see a problem with connecting the red/green and blue/white wires for supplying juice to the Ignitor II/coil? (I think the red/green wire might originate at the igntion switch)

As usual, many thanks for reading.

[t-bird-art]

Here we are again: Depart from what Ford had originally and we end up with a basket full of questions. Original owner did not fix Transistor ignition right and now the new system on top of that . God Almighty and the next owner will never figure out what was and what was not done. Best get a Factory Repair manual and put in correct conventional or transistorized ignition exactly as Ford did it. I definitely would not install High Energy 40KV Coils. The heads were not designed for it and the spark will burn holes in the top of the pistons.

[tbird5866]

I thought that I knew that the ignition coil will only put out the voltage required to fire the charge. If you have a 40K coil and only 8K is required to fire the charge, you will only get 8K out of the coil. Using a 40K coil will only benefit if you need voltage up to 40K. Am I wrong again?

[t-bird-art]

Totally agree with
" thought that I knew that the ignition coil will only put out the voltage required to fire the charge. If you have a 40K coil and only 8K is required to fire the charge, you will only get 8K out of the coil. Using a 40K coil will only benefit if you need voltage up to 40K."

BUT , Ford designed heads , position of spark plugs and top of pistons to have a normal 15KV and maximum of 30KV in there . ( 30KV with engine under load or high speeds.)

Installing coils with capacity beyond 30KV ( to 40Kv or 50KV ) and spark will jump to top of pistons and burn a hole in top of the factory piston.

Install racing pistons and racing heads with hot coils you can do it to it.

[Yoda]

If I'm not using racing/high perf. plugs so do you think I'll still have sparking across to the tops of the pistions? If so, I'll switch back to a lower voltage coil (although the car is running great right now).

I'm keeping my Ignitor II electronic ignition though. If I ever sell the car (which I have no intention of ever doing - I've kept my Opel GT for 20 years now), I'll be happy to show the new owner how to put the points back in.

[t-bird-art]

Oh me. The standard plug Autolite BF 42 specified by Ford was not designed for Hot coils. The standard plug w/HE Coil is more likely to jump the gap under load/acceleration and Interstate speeds. Install standard coil & standard plugs & keep the nice efficient distributor set-up. See if engine continues to run great. I believe it will because you currently have the carb and timing and everything else running right. If performance suffers dramatically from what you want then I just don't know !

[Yoda]

I'll change out the coil this weekend and let you know what happens.

[MUDBIRD65]

so are you sayin the flame thrower coil is too hot?? haha
but what i wana know is where/what is the best wire to use as a keyed 12v power source for the pointless conversion...and damned if mine doesnt run like a champ with it and the flame thrower..i just dont have it set up with the correct power so no driving yet... yes there are some of us feeble minded and learning the ropes but thats why we ask experts like you "t-bird-art"

thanks..as yes i plan on keepin all ignition add-ons, except maybe the coil..

[SCUMDOG]

I have had NO trouble in various V8s with a Petronix/fat wire/Mallory coil set-up, my '66 Bird has already had a Petronix kit fitted before I bought it and I'll leave it there.
Sparks don't 'jump to the top of a piston', I've hotted up and raced a lot of engines and too much ignition advance and the resultant 'pinking' will EVENTUALLY hole a piston (Does it pretty fast in a supercharged engine).
I HAVE noticed a smother idle and easier starting with the Petronix set-up over a twin-point - and it was better than the original single-point.

Hope this helps you decide what to do.

[Harley Eaton]

Someone has suggested the window safety relay as a sourse for 12 volts. That person also suggested a fuse in the line.