Ticking Noise & Carb Plumbing

[WEBIV]

I have noticed a ticking noise during acceleration in my 64 conv. t-bird. I checked the compression with readings of between 160 - 170 PSI. A friend of mine suspects that the hydraulic lifters along with the push rods need to be replaced - I was told the engine was rebuilt a few years ago - the car sat for about 5 years until I took possesion - current milage is 122k. *Has anyone put roller rockers in their bird?

In addition, the holley carb has two air lines that connect to the exhaust manifold (for choke control). The larger diameter line is loosely stubbed into the exhaust manifold and the small diameter line has broken off into the exhaust manifold. Should these lines be welded back to the manifold or is there an easier fix?

As I am a newbie to engine repair, any advice will be appreciated.

[Yoda]

I have the same tick during acceleration and originally suspected the same thing. Another forum member pointed out that it was most likely a manifold leak. Upon further inspection, I agree. I'm leaving it alone for now because its not getting much worse and will be a pain to fix. Apparantly Thunderbirds from this era were/are prone to manifold leaks.

I removed the choke lines you mentioned when I upgraded to an aftermarket Holley carb with electronic choke. The will wiggle right out. I think they were originally just "pressed" into place and I think they may be available aftermakret if you want to replace them.

I'm still a bit of a Thunderbird n00b myself so the more experienced members might have additional/better advice.

[mariner blue]

The sticking noise I bet are your lifters that have gunk built up over five years of sitting. I had the same thing happen to me and no, they will not go away. The push rods will only get bent more and then you loose alot of power due to not running on all 8.

Take a two by four and with the motor running use it as a listening device. Hold it against the rocker covers moving up and down and you will hear real easily where the bad lifter/ push rod is. IF the noise is coming from the passenger side then you have it easy since there is not alot to take off to get the rocker covers off. The drivers side has the powersteering inthe way I believe although it can still be taken off.

Once you have the cover off, spray some carb cleaner into all of the lifters after you take the pushpins out. Just shine a light down and you can almost tell if they are dirty or not. Then replace the pushrods with new ones ($1.50 a piece or so) and you are in business. Start er up, let her smoke a bit and burn it off and hope all is solved.

Of course the other problem might be stuck valves in which case take it to a mechanic and they can possible unstick them with taking the whole thing apart. Air into the suspected stuck valve in the spark plug and loosen the rocker arms etc... But let them do that......mariner blue

[t-bird-art]

For Yoda: All pre 1966 original exhaust manifold gaskets are now at the end of their useful life and need to be replaced. Your currently leaking gasket is sending hot exhaust past the gasket and will burn a groove in the head and exhaust manifold. This is one of the toughest jobs to do on the Birds. Best to find a mechanic with a torch and lift willing to do it. A "Do It Yourself" project ends up with broken bolts in the head , cracked/broken manifolds and scratches on your arms up to the elbows. Replacement exhaust manifolds are hard to find.

[t-bird-art]

Regardin the 2 choke air lines. Ford just had a press fit into the exhaust manifold. The replacement kits are aluminum junk. They don't fit right or look right. Just replace the lines with copper tubing. The original lines broken off and rusted in the manifold need to be removed. Just use a center punch to push them into the manifold.

[WEBIV]

Well...I removed the valve covers, removed the rocker arm support assembly, push rods, and (3) hydraulic lifters (with magnet) on passenger side - until the wife called me in. The rods at cylinder 1 and 2 were coated with some metal flakes...is this normal? Since I'm into it now...does anyone recommend some performance enhancements such as roller lifters, roller rockers, and will I have to replace the cam shaft if I install new standard hydraulic lifters as directed by Haynes techbook. Haynes does mention that roller lifters can be used with the original cam - has anyone done this? Thanks for your help.

[Yoda]

Seems I was a bit more lucky. Took my car to the exhaust shop with all the new mainfold parts in hand and was expecting a several hour job. Got a call in less than an hour to pick it up. Turns out the nuts holding the tailpipe to the manifold were stripped and the shop owner replaced them for free. I'm sure I'll have to still do the manifold gaskets at some point, but I did buy a little more time. Although I'm under 60k, I'm sure the gaskets won't hold out for too much longer based on age, but if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

[t-bird-art]

To WEBIV: Metal flakes on push rods is a real concern. Need to find out where flakes are comming from. Push rod tips chewing on rocker arm socket? Don't know abot roller lifters. Either roller or hydraulic lifters- try to get from reliable USA/Canadian company such as TRW and not some cheap generic Tawian/China manufacturer.

[WEBIV]

The "metal flakes" could have been carbon deposites - I should have run a magnet over them to confirm. At this point I am considering two options - Have it rebuilt or purchase turn-key engine. Can anyone recommend a reputable ford fe engine shop in the southeast US (I'm in North Carolina).

[t-bird-art]

I would try to go where the mechanican experience is concentrated in N.C.- in the shops of current and former wiskey runners now law biding NASCAR drivers. If you could get one of the grey haired mechanics who worked on these 6o's engines to do your engine on the side, that would be perfect !