Dashboard removal

[Brian]

I'm starting what looks like the toughest job. Any hints?

There is so much connected behind the board, do I just unbolt the board and have someone help me while I start disconnecting? Or do I really need to pre-disconnect everthing?

I've disconnected the obvious, but the heater parts, washer moter, etc, and the main wire harness (drivers side) are very tough to get to.

I'm getting ready to unbolt the steering wheel collar, and have the easy stuff done.

Any takers? Thanks!

[nomadbird]

Brian,

I've hesitated in responding because it has been a few years since doing this and I as afraid of leaving out something important. I don't know how far you are stripping down the car so let's assume you're only removing the dash.

(1) Always remove the top,seat, and steering column first
(2) Remove hardware at dash attaching the parking brake, hood release and windshield wiper switch. Disconnect speedo and tach cables.
(3) Remove ash tray tracks and radio.
(4) Remove heater control and disconnect heater blower wires.
(5) Disconnect left air cable under hood. Disconnect all wires under hood that are part of the 14401 harness. Remove harness clamp at firewall. Feed harness into car interior.
(6) Remove all bright trim from dash ends and windshield.
(7) Remove all dash/body attaching screws. I think there are ~ 5 or 7 along bottom of windshield. Remove the bolts that attach the dash to the "L" shaped brackets under the front of the dash near the front of the door opening. Do not remove the brackets from the cowl. Make sure you dont misplace the unique washers used at this attachment point. Remove courtesy light switches from hinge pillars.

(8) There are a couple wiring connections inside the car at the trans tunnel and coming off the steering column that we haven't mentioned, so just use common sense and logic and it should go smoothly.
(9) One person at each end of the dash should be able to remove the dash and Main harness fairly easy.

Tom

[ 11-23-2001: Message edited by: nomadbird ]

[ 11-23-2001: Message edited by: nomadbird ]

[Brian]

Tom- thanks for the help. Actually I've been nipping away at it, so I was almost there. Pulled it out yesterday, and you had the scenario dead on.

Why not remove the "l brackets" ? To support it while you slide it out? Anyway, I was overjoyed to have it slide out after a little tug. My bird is rusted pretty bad, but the dash assembly seems okay.

Had a devil of a time getting the wiper knob off for some reason.

Well, its' on to the heater assembly, and then the body should be close behind.

Did you redo your dash yourself? Or have it done? I assume the hardest part is getting the new cover on without any wrinkles.

Thanks again.

[nomadbird]

Brian,

Lucky you! I see you live in Ohio. That is where we Baby Bird owners have one of our best suppliers and two of the most capable restoration shops specializing in '55-'57 T-Birds. Would like to answer your quetions first.
(1) "L" brackets are left on the cowl to allow sliding the dash off and on. They will help accurately locate the dash at reassembly time. They were assembled on the car when it was originally painted.
(2) Wiper knob has a set screw located around 3 or 4 o'clock to secure it to a "D" shaped shaft. Same story on the heater blower switch.
(3) You can re-cover the dash yourself. I need to know your objectives before offering advise. It's a big ticket part that deserves respect.

If you would provide me with all your data plate info and clue me in on your goals, (stock, modified, concours quality or cruise nite driver) that will help me to help you. Hopefully, we can get what you want in a more cost effective manner. By the way,do you belong to Classic Thunderbird Club Intl.(CTCI)? If not, go to: www.ctci.org

Tom

P.S. After posting this reply, I realized why you were concerned with wrinkles in the dash pad. You must be working on a '55 or '56. In that case, thorough surface cleaning will be the toughest part of the job. The good news is: it's cheap! I was thinking of a '57 when stating the dash cover was an expensive item.

[ 11-26-2001: Message edited by: nomadbird ]

[s56]

While you've got the heater out, save yourself a big PITA later,(and freezing it off, since you live in Ohio), and order a new lever for the lower control on your heater during one of your other orders. It's made of spring steel, and everyone I've ever met said it breaks after a few years because it has to be forced up and over as you go from off to heat. Yeah, yeah, I thought, I've got enough CURRENTLY broken stuff that I can forego the stuff that MIGHT break...

Mine broke last week. It would have been VERY easy if I already had the dash off, as you do. $5 part, $1000 worth of pissed off owner.

[Brian]

Tom:

Thanks for the info:

I have a '57. Obviously doing a complete restoration, but it's my first. I have good help from my father, who has done restorations, but not T-Birds.

Understanding that Concourse means perfectly original, I will not be Concourse. But I intend it to be done right! I will drive this car when it's done.

I'm deciding on such items as Stainless Steel exhaust, what different radio, etc. I'm not sure yet what I'll do with the Y-block (like special valve covers, etc) but I'm tending towards stock. I have 3speed overdrive trans, power seats. But largely I intend for original.

And yes S56, my lower arm is already broken! It's on my list!

I intend to do the running gear my self, with help from other restoration knowledgable friends. Then, I intend to turn the body over to a shop, which I haven't picked yet.

Who are the shops in Ohio that you know of?
Is one in Coshocton?

And finally, I've been on the shelf as to which T-Bird group to join, but I think I'l jump on the CTCI bandwagon, I've been impressed with this site the most.

I could go on for hours: thanks for reading!

[nomadbird]

Brian,
Yes, Coshocton is good but; I'd be willing to ship one of my cars cross-country to Racine, Ohio. His work has consistently been that impressive!

CTCI Concours has a Modified class in their concours. The Modified cars out number the Original class by as much as 6:!. You may also choose between under carriage being judged or not.
There is also a Touring Class with closed hood, doors, and trunk lid. There is something for every one.

Tom
P.S. We still have some issues to resolve before refurbishing the dash.

[Brian]

Thanks Tom: assume you are talking about Hill's in Racine. I'll have to look into that.

I've got the dash out, but my plans were to continue with body parts stripping, and then body off. That should happen this month, with most of the work left being the heater/wiper assemplies under the dash. (I've got everthing else that matters our, except a few engine side firewall items. I'll leave the engine/trans in until body off).

After body off, I will switch to the frame and running gear. My plan was to do that myself, then turn the finished undercarriage over to the body man.

My body is real bad: needs complete rear quarters, inner and outer rockers, lots of floor board work. The front fenders are good, but there is evidence of bondo in RF around headlight. There is two inch's of missing metal under where the hardtop sat on the trunk deck. Some of the body to frame bolts are rusted away to half their diameter.


This is a labor of love. I wish there was a manual that guides you thru this (like you comment about not removing the dash "l" brackets).

I've got a digital camera, so anybody wants to see a rusty bird, let me know, I can email.

I printed out the CTI form, so I'll be on that this week.

[nomadbird]

Brian,
Want to start another thread for the body?
We can just have this thread for the dashboard; and have other major areas on their own thread. That should make it easier for you and any others to easily retieve the subject that interests them.

Dash board: there are currently two choices. You can have genuine FoMoCo in blue that may be dyed, or repro in all colors except blue. Prices are ~ $400. There is a difference in appearance and they each MAY have their own installation peculiarities. The repro covers were not available when I did mine and they still had manufacturing differences in them over a few years. This might be something I'd sub out now. The cost of a screw up is pretty high. Oh, I had to dye my red one FIVE TIMES before I got it right. The Black one
was a piece of cake.
Suggest you look at both Ford and repro installed in cars before making a choice.

Tom