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INSTRUMENT REMOVAL

This is a discussion on INSTRUMENT REMOVAL within the Early Birds [1955-1957] forums, part of the Thunderbird Model Years category; I am planning on restoring the instruments on my 57 Tbird this fall. What is the best way to remove ...

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  #1 (permalink)   IP: 12.218.216.194
Old 06-18-2002, 12:34 PM
 
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Post INSTRUMENT REMOVAL

I am planning on restoring the instruments on my 57 Tbird this fall. What is the best way to remove the speedo,tach, oil, water and clock? Do they come out as a unit or individually?
Thank you in advance.
Tom Wright
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  #2 (permalink)   IP: 216.144.36.66
Old 06-20-2002, 09:04 AM
 
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I'm waiting patiently for someone to help here Tom. I'm going to be restoring my dash completely soon, and am wondering about whether I can do it or not.

It's down the road, tho.

My body , btw, is stripped naked and getting panels put in now. I was very impressed with some replacement panels I received from CASCO.
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  #3 (permalink)   IP: 209.240.222.32
Old 06-20-2002, 01:17 PM
 
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Tom & Brian,

The short answer is: Yes, each instrument may be removed individually from the die cast instrument housing. I personally have never gone beyond clock and tach removal on an assembled '57. "55s & '56s are a lot easier. There is something about having a brake pedal lodged in my forehead while my forearm is gettng chewed to shreds by the support bracket that has kept me from removing the speedo, fuel, and temp gauges without first removing the dashboard. I know it can be done with enough patience and band aids. Each instrument is mounted with 3 or 4 slotted fillister head screws. you should be able to feel these screw heads on the mounting flange of each instrument's perimeter. Don't forget the radio dial like so many people. Around 640 and 1240 there are little triangles that are also colored like your instrument needles.

I'd like to offer a little explanation of why it seems like I do everything the hard way in interiors. Many of you hobbiests have to fight body rust, but you have pretty good interiors. On the other hand, those of us who live in the arid southwest or west coast don't have a body rust problem, but our interiors really get ratty looking. This is especially true in coastal areas where previous owners have gone topless (the car, the car) to the beach and allowed all that salt air to penetrate every nook and cranny of the interior and then the sun is baking the life out of everything else. Result: One thoroughly trashed interior that needs everything.

Brian, you have an advantage. Your dash is out of the car isn't it? You have the opportunity to go through yours and restore it to "like new" condition. It's possible to refurbish a dash in the car but it sure seems like the more difficult method with some compromise in the quality of the overall project.

Tom

P.S. I've never removed the lens from the clock. So I really don't know how that is done. I have had terrific results in clock repairs (including dial restoration) from the Clockworks in Eagle River, Wisconsin. Great work, very reasonable and quick turn around.
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  #4 (permalink)   IP: 216.144.36.66
Old 06-21-2002, 09:03 AM
 
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That's right Tom, Dash is out. It sits comfortably on the floor out of harms way, while I ponder chassis and body repairs. I should get to it sometime next month I hope (have to squeeze in a vacation).

I chewed my arm up enough just carefully disconnecting the dash, even with the pedals removed!

Does anyone know if there is a specification for front coil spring height? I'll be checking mine shortly for re-use or replacement.
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  #5 (permalink)   IP: 209.240.222.32
Old 06-22-2002, 01:29 PM
 
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Brian,

Spring data on page 4-13 of '57 shop manual.

Tom
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