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Window motors
- Thread starter Jonz64
- Start date
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tbird5866
Well-known member
I will check to see if I have some GOOD working window motors.. I assume you are seeking motors only and not gears or gear housings. Harley Eaton
65 Galaxie Arty
Active member
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2011
- Messages
- 25
I am currently looking to have my power window motors rebuilt and or replaced. I need 2 quarter window motors and passenger side window motor. I have all 3 but not working.
Sent you a PM....
1964 Rear Quarter Window
My driver side rear quarter window will not operate. I removed the assembly, hoping it just needed a new grease job in the tracks/channels. I was able to get the window to go up/down manually, but the power part of it does not seems to engage. Power is getting to the motor. Does this mean I need a new motor/gear? If so, is that a "part in assembly" that is replacable - or - do I need a whole new assembly? If just a new motor/gear, does anyone have a recommendation for where to find one (or two... the passenger side goes up/down very slowly)?
My driver side rear quarter window will not operate. I removed the assembly, hoping it just needed a new grease job in the tracks/channels. I was able to get the window to go up/down manually, but the power part of it does not seems to engage. Power is getting to the motor. Does this mean I need a new motor/gear? If so, is that a "part in assembly" that is replacable - or - do I need a whole new assembly? If just a new motor/gear, does anyone have a recommendation for where to find one (or two... the passenger side goes up/down very slowly)?
Rebuilt window motors
You can get rebuilt window motors from Thunderbird headquarters for about $150. Or you can do like me since its still cold out here. Take the time to find some decent used ones. you do not need to replace the whole assembly. I am going throug the same with mine.
You can get rebuilt window motors from Thunderbird headquarters for about $150. Or you can do like me since its still cold out here. Take the time to find some decent used ones. you do not need to replace the whole assembly. I am going throug the same with mine.
Last night I disassembled the motor/gear. The motor works, but the gear's guts were shot. New gears are on order from Mac's. I hope the re-assembly is not too hard.
I also learned the switch in the quarter trim is fine, but the "down" position in the console switch does nothing. I am not looking forward to tackling the center console switch pack, as the cure may cause illnesses to the other 3 switches.
I also learned the switch in the quarter trim is fine, but the "down" position in the console switch does nothing. I am not looking forward to tackling the center console switch pack, as the cure may cause illnesses to the other 3 switches.
RobertZpianoman
Active member
- Joined
- Oct 27, 2010
- Messages
- 40
open circuits f y i
remember an ohm volt meter cost $12.00 dollars. they are a must when working on electrical..anyway take out rear seat again to access the" breaker"on the floor panel inside the motor area (in the series circuit) , the one that would be from the actual motor ( wire harness) at the window in question area ...attached to the motor from the b a t . side of(that )breaker and has the other terminal from breaker from it going to the the sheet metal "ground ", that breaker could be"open" meaning "off" tripped , no go , etc. or d i r t y sheet metal screw!!!mine was.. not actually grounded. so current goes from switch to motor to breaker to ground thru that breaker and if there is corrosion or an unfortunately shorted motor keeping breaker open then the motor can't reach ground and no MOTOR motion would happen...or disconnect that breaker from the motor with a 11/32 open end tiny wrench or is it a 3/8 wrench , not sure but anyway put your meter to the o h m scale after disconnecting the motor from breaker and put one test lead to a good clean metal ground and the other lead to the bat terminal that had the motor wire on it before test. you should see the meter change reading meaning the breaker is good to ground (if not go get a new one at local parts store) or .. so then spray the rocker switch for that window( down insides witches area ) with radio shacks contact aerosol cleaner re-connect the motor to (bat.) terminal and turn key to (acc.) and test windows . Is the bad window still not working?? un- plug wires from motor.. test leads from meter to leads you should see meter changes at (ohm scale) ,how about from motor leads to (ground metal) on motor? there should not be any meter changes from motor wires to metal of motor. anyway loose breaker /dirty switches was my only problem . don't forget to view my recent new input to the forum about brightening up rear lites on your 30 amp. charging rated existing system.my occupation was santa ana school district fleet vehicle electrician , calif. now in tenn. retired with multi upgraded electrical system a dual battery '58 bird 24k invested so far..
remember an ohm volt meter cost $12.00 dollars. they are a must when working on electrical..anyway take out rear seat again to access the" breaker"on the floor panel inside the motor area (in the series circuit) , the one that would be from the actual motor ( wire harness) at the window in question area ...attached to the motor from the b a t . side of(that )breaker and has the other terminal from breaker from it going to the the sheet metal "ground ", that breaker could be"open" meaning "off" tripped , no go , etc. or d i r t y sheet metal screw!!!mine was.. not actually grounded. so current goes from switch to motor to breaker to ground thru that breaker and if there is corrosion or an unfortunately shorted motor keeping breaker open then the motor can't reach ground and no MOTOR motion would happen...or disconnect that breaker from the motor with a 11/32 open end tiny wrench or is it a 3/8 wrench , not sure but anyway put your meter to the o h m scale after disconnecting the motor from breaker and put one test lead to a good clean metal ground and the other lead to the bat terminal that had the motor wire on it before test. you should see the meter change reading meaning the breaker is good to ground (if not go get a new one at local parts store) or .. so then spray the rocker switch for that window( down insides witches area ) with radio shacks contact aerosol cleaner re-connect the motor to (bat.) terminal and turn key to (acc.) and test windows . Is the bad window still not working?? un- plug wires from motor.. test leads from meter to leads you should see meter changes at (ohm scale) ,how about from motor leads to (ground metal) on motor? there should not be any meter changes from motor wires to metal of motor. anyway loose breaker /dirty switches was my only problem . don't forget to view my recent new input to the forum about brightening up rear lites on your 30 amp. charging rated existing system.my occupation was santa ana school district fleet vehicle electrician , calif. now in tenn. retired with multi upgraded electrical system a dual battery '58 bird 24k invested so far..
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