window electric motor relay

[Jim 793]

I need to replace both window electric motor relays. I called the T-bird parts dealers. No luck. I am looking for a cross reference number for an off the shielf relay. Does any one know of a good rely part number?

 

[nomadbird]

Sorry Jim,

I can't answer your question directly but-------Thunderbird Center in Michigan lists the following in their catalog:
14677-RP Safety relay 12 volt power window, replacement not identical to original.......$60.00.

It's probably worth the telephone call to get additional information.
(248) 548-1721.

Good Luck, Tom D.

 

[Jim 793]

Tom D.
Thanks for the part number that should help. If I find a replacement number I will post it. The problem is, I need two replays and that's $120. Espically, when it is a $5 part at best.

 

[tbird5866]

Where do you get the idea that you need two relays? Do you have two cars that need relays? Normally, one relay is required per car..

 

[sc1956]

Also, if you're not looking to be original, you can buy Omron, P&B, or any other relay in just about any configuration. I've not looked at how the bird's relays function, but I'm absolutely certain that you can find a cheap, modern relay to do the trick.

 

[Jim 793]

Maybe, I am called it the wrong name. Next to the Window motor there is a small cube device that bolts to the back of the access panel and has two black wires on it. One goes direc to the motor and the other into the wire harnes. I need one for each door window motor. I thought it was a relay. Please, advise of the correct name and part number.

 

[nomadbird]

Jim,

It sounds like you're describing a circuit breaker.The full original FOMOCO part# is: B6A 14526-C. Most T-Bird parts suppliers still have this item. If that's what it is, you better figure out what is causing it to blow. I only have one car (unrestored) w/full power and I believe it's circuit breakers are original. Matter of fact, I thought they were under the dash!

Tom D.

 

[Jim 793]

Thanks for the information. The one circuit breaker was drowned by water coming in from the previous owner and the other smoked due to a very tight motor. I will talk to the ford parts counter folks.

 

[Jim 793]

Tom D
found out why they are blown. One motor was locked up and the other was from a 55 door that was replaced by someone that didn't understand electronics. I'm sending both motors out for rewind to 12 volts for my 56.

 

[nomadbird]

Jim,

Sounds like the same "craftsman" who installed your light switch also worked on the doors. Just try to keep a sense of humor when you uncover these gems. Don't get discouraged and lose sight of your objective.

Tom D.

 

[Jim 793]

Tom D
Your so right. I did find three mercury dimes and five wheat pennies in the defroster hose. I think I'm ahead of the game with the disassembly process. It's taken about 30 hours and everything is apart. The machine shop has the engine apart and says its just needs a major overhall. I also, found a two-four barral intake manifold to reassemble to the orginal engine specs.

I'm not sure if I am ahead or behind schedule. Either way, I've got a paint shop date of 11/1. Just might make it. How long did it take for your last rebuild?

 

[nomadbird]

Jim,

I was afraid someone was going to ask that embarrassing question:"How long did it take"?

Car #1 Red '57 Convt.
I bought this turkey in 1973. I drove it home ~150 miles. It was soooooo ugly' I didn't even take "before" pictures of it. It finally got to it's first CTCI National show in '94.

Car #2 Black '57 Convt.
This one was a wrecked, stripped junk with a Salvage Title that I bought in May '77 to cut up because it had such solid, straight body panels. While stripping the paint off this $300 gem, I decided it was too nice to cut up. It's first (and only) CTCI National showing was '96. This is supposed to be my driver but in reality, car #3 gets driven the most.

Car #3 Black '57 hdtp full pwr.
Have known and worked on this car since '87. Never had a body-off restoration. But, it was good enough to earn an AACA Senior award last year.

My stubborness in trying to maintain an impossibly high standard caused a lot of re-work and attrition among paint materials and plating services. This caused the project to languish for extended periods. Now I don't give a hoot anymore. Well, O.K.; I'm still a stickler for keeping them authentic.

This seems like a long time. The consoling fact is that I've usually owned an operational '57 for most of the last 46 years.


Good Luck, Tom D.

[ 08-21-2003: Message edited by: nomadbird ]

 

[Jim 793]

This is my first T-bird. I've waited almost 40 some years. SO, I hope to be able to drive it next June. The car was already in 90% plus shape. Looks like it was restored 10+ years ago. (with 55 doors and other half-A work. The good thing is I have a great baseline to start with. Who ever did the work lost it in a reposession for bad debt and I got a great deal. Don't plan to enter it yet but that might change.

Thanks for the vote of support.

Jim

 

[sc1956]

Jim-
You said "with 55 doors", I thought 55 & 56 were the same door, but I'm relatively new to body work.

Also noticed you've got a 2bbl. If you ever decide to change to a 4, and want "original" I've got an intake, 6 month rebuild carb, tach drive distributor, cable, AND tach guts that have recently begun collecting dust. They all work great, but when I discovered that the body was never going to be a "high value all original", I decided to go with the '57 top end and electronic tach. Unfortunatley, I had just rebuilt the carb, put in a new choke tube, and reworked the distributor. I guess that's the way it goes.

Stephen.

 

[Jim 793]

Yes the window motors were 6 volt. (only done in 55)

Sorry for the confussion. I bought it with a 4 bbl and the vin number says it had 2-4 bbls. I found a intake from a friend and want to put it back as stock. The problem is to put it back to orginal will take way too much $. It's been patched alot by the previous owner. So, I've determined to make it my fun car and have it look good.

Maybe, when I get a bigger space to hold 4+ cars I might go for a 57. Till then I enjoy the 56. If I ever get it back together.

 

[nomadbird]

Jim,
A '56 VIN that decodes as dual 4 barrels? Isn't it a generic P or M code? This could be interesting subject matter for a new thread.

Tom D.

 

[Joe Vandatta]

If your looking for a cheap 12 volt relay, Radio Shack has them---hey, they work!