water and cold starting

[s56]

Unrelated topics, except that they both relate to my state of irritation.

Water first...damn this sucker leaks. Is it POSSIBLE to keep the top and doors from leaking?

Cold starting...seems like a fuel issue. Car runs well, but takes 30 seconds (not continuous, so as to save the starter and not burn battery cables up) turning over to start the thing. No big deal to me, but since my wife sleeps an hour after I get up, kind of rough. I've been told to put an electric fuel pump in line with the mechanical one, give it a couple of seconds pump in the morning, and it'll be good. Anyone done this? Should it go IN LINE, or in parallel, with a set of check valves to prevent looping the fuel back?

 

[nomadbird]

s56,
First the leaks: the time honored fix for '55-'57 T-Bird weather proofing is exactly the same one that is used on '55-'57 Nomads: They have to stay in the garage when it rains. You will never get a Bird to be leak free for an extended period of time because the front window posts eventually bend away from the windshield. Take a look at yours. At the top of the post it is probably bent outward and toward the back.

Starting--- If you are using the original type Holley teapot carb, and everythin else is up to snuff, the carb is probably "draining down" its fuel bowl. The proper fix is to have it rebuilt. I would recommend no one other than Pony Carburetors. They have a web site so check em out.

Good Luck, Tom

 

[s56]

Thanks. Unfortunately, I've got to dig as deeply as possible, since Atlanta isn't as rain free an environment as Santa Barbara. Damn.

Do you mean the vertical post that's actually on the door, or the vertical posts that actually hold in the windshield? Both leak on my car. The one on the door doesn't bother me SO badly, I've got a few ideas for it (bending, replacing, bigger stripping, etc) but the windshield issue is something else. Sounds like 3M's 5200 marine sealant, if I can't solve it any other way.

Stephen.

 

[nomadbird]

Stephen,
The part I was referring to is 20314 & 20315. You can take them out, straighten them, reinstall them so they are perfectly parallel with the windshield dog leg moldings and after opening and closing the door repeatedly, they will bow outward or toward the back or both! My 7 year old resto is fine; Its a show car that only is driven occassionally for exercise. My 5 year old car that was built to the same standards, has been driven regularly and has many thousands of miles on it. Its' drivers door post is now bent out and back. Part of the problem is the 20330 weatherstrip is too hard. I experimented by trying to "soften" it by putting holes and cutting slits on the back side of the weatherstrip; but that didn't work. I have come to the conclusion that there is nothing that can be done to seal the post and upper door dog leg area without altering the stock appearance. Most cars I have seen off the show field, show evidence of attempted correction of this problem.

You seem to be more interested in practicality than authenticity, so I suggest you straighten the pillars, then experiment with various shapes and sizes of open cell (soft) rubber running in one continuous piece from the top of the posts down to the opening for the upper door hinge.

This past year, we went 155 days between measurable precipitation. I can't hardly imagine using a '55-'57 Bird in any environment wetter than that. There are scads of places on that body that seem to be designed to hold water and eventually rust out or they never received any surface protection whatsoever and they would rust into oblivion just from atmospheric moisture.

Keep us Posted, Tom

 

[s56]

Thanks for the update. You're right about my intention for the car. I'm not modifying things that can't easily be returned to original. Weatherstripping can be easily reverted, hence I'll probably opt for the open cell stuff. It fills space better, if nothing else.

Believe it or not, my door posts aren't bent. That can mean "yet" or "anymore", of course.

I appreciate your help.

 

[nomadbird]

Stephen,
That's great news (and unusual) that your door posts aren't bent. It may also explain the leaks at that area. No weatherstrip contact! Can you explain exactly where the water is coming in at your windshield?
I'm thinking an invisible repair could be made there using caulking cord.

Tom

 

[s56]

Well, I've found several places. At the top of the window, I caulked the #$%# out of the area between the chrome trim and the hard top, both on the top side, and bottom where it screws in. Didn't realize that it would leak there, I guess I'm not too bright.

The windshield itself was leaking, and funnelling around to the door pillar beneath the chrome, making it look like the pillar. The window was set into the rubber, with no sealant or anything. It leaked. Black 3M 5200 and a caulk gun, no leak.

Then, there's the door pillar, which seems to have worked pretty well with an open cell newer weatherstripping, medium gauge, put on both the door and the frame. Big help on wind noise, too.

Now, I've got to weatherstrip around the door itself. I ordered the sealer guide, which hasn't come. In the interim, I guess I'll do nothing, because I'm not certain how it SHOULD fit, since what's on there now was done by someone else, and doesn't work well.

This morning, having fixed the door pillar and hard top, and feeling pretty good I took it out in the rain to get wet. All was pretty good. Went into the office, and returned a couple of hours later. As you know cat whiskers are no weather deterrent. That's not a problem, since it should flow through the door to the weep holes. Well, I open the door, and water is pouring from between the door panel and the door itself. Strange, right? It should be coming in the top of the door, and out the weep holes. Then I look to the bottom of the door...no weep holes. They were apparently filled during a paint job! Water in through window sill, fills up the door, and flows over between the metal door and the panel!

Needless to say, I've got a big weekend ahead of me. Opening the door up will give me opportunity to grease and adjust the window mechanisms, I guess.

If I can rebuild a 100 year old falling down house 100% alone (which I did last year), I can find a way to keep water out of this darned car. Then I guess I'll replace the carpeting, since the trial and error will undoubtedly result in some funky flooring odors.

 

[nomadbird]

s56,

If all eight drain holes on the underside of the door are filled in; that should be testimony to the Birds propensity for leaking. Do you need dimensions for the proper size and location of the holes?

If you have ordered the Trim & Sealer Manual from CTCI, that is a great first step in getting things the way Ford intended. Your efforts using caulking cord, various sealants and the softest weatherstrip material known to man should go a long way towards keeping you dry and preventing a crop of mushrooms from growing out of the front carpet. (True Story) Even we have rain forecast for tomorrow. Guess whose Birds are staying in the garage?

Tom