The joys of working on the '65 steering...

[NCsilvermink]

Not really a question but just a statement - just how much more complicated could the Ford engineers have made the shift/steering/sliding column assemblies and then build them with rubber and plastic bushings that likely decomposed into thin air well before the 1970's were over?:mad

I finally managed to get the upper steering shaft out of the column, withthe objective having been to replace the lower shift tube bushing and upper steering shaft bearing support. (Great parts from Bird Nest by the way). The job was made more difficult by Ford's use of 12-point bolts that also rusted into a solid hulk - after removing the left hood hinge I split the bolts using a Dremel Multi-Max and removed the flexible joint that way, replacing with grade 5 socket head bolts.

It turns out the lower bushing btw column and shift tube had long since degraded and the upper bearing support ring was like a trace of ear wax. No wonder I'm missing "Park" and the column moved up and down and all around.

I love my T-Bird, but Ford's parts and complexity were fairly dismal in the mid 60's. No wonder they eventually bought a similar company - Jaguar. :yesnod

 

[smithm31]

The column works OK in my 64. After reading your post I am dreading the day it starts going south on me.

 

[my66cruiser]

Hi folks,

I am new here and I have a '66 with a rather sloppy/loose shifter - like the user who started this thread. Once I started my car and it slipped from park into reverse and the car moved backwards. I am going to order, from Thunderbird Headquarters in Concord, CA, the rebuild kit (several parts) to rectify the sloppy shifter syndrome. Has anyone used these parts, and did they correct the problem? I have never puchased from them before.

 

[NCsilvermink]

It's me in NC again and in response to the owner of the '66, I am proud to say that I finished the job this morning after about 2 weeks. Thanks go out to The Bird Nest for their help over the phone when the OEM service manual was of no help. Obtain both the electrical assembly manual and the wiring diagram for your car - it'll be invaluable.

The 65 and 66 were prone to steering wheel play in the up and down direction, in addition to popping out of park. Even though my vacuum dashpot for the parking brake doesn't work, there is a manual override lever just at dash edge and I suggest always using the p-brake.

Order from any vendor of your choosing but I heartily recommend the quality parts I got from Bird Nest. You should get a new shift lever (~$45) which includes a new rubber collar and will address the old one that has definitely worn a groove into itself; get a new shift detent plate; upper bearing retainer (thin rubber collar that grips the bearing and will solve all of your steering wheel slop) and the lower shift column retainer. This is likely long since gone and is part of the reason you are jumping out of park. Both the upper and lower inserts were originally made of poor polymers or rubbers and evaporated into a wax-like goo. Driving the rollpin out of the shift level pivot was not one of my more pleasant jobs either....

You'll need to remove the driver's hood hinge (it's OK, when fully opened it has no tension, three bolts to the chassis, two to the hood) and then pray that you can fit a 12-pt 7/16" socket on the special shoulder bolts that Ford intended. If they're likely corroded from brake fluid drips, etc, it might be easiest to cut the bastards through the shaft of the bolt (both of them) with a Dremel Multi-Max, and tap out the threaded stubs that remain. These flexible steering couplers ARE NOT reproduced and you need to reuse this part. Once this is out, you'll easily be able to remove the steering shaft and install the upper brg retainer as well as more easily fit the lower retainer.

I know I've typed too much but there's so much more you might need to know as you go along. You can call me on cell at 336.202.3859 weekdays if you'd like. In particular, Ford gave very little slack with the wiring harness up the column and you'll need it to remove the turnsignal and get access to the upper bearing so loosen all three wiring plastic clamps with a 5/16" socket and pull the loop of the harness that goes behind the neutral safety switch up and over. Little things like this made a big difference.

David

 

[my66cruiser]

Hi David from NC. Glad you got yours all fixed up nicely - it must feel good. Can't wait 'til mine is there. This job I may leave for a mechanic friend of mine whom I will bring all of the parts to and your invaluable advice as well. Also, if I don't have any up and down play in the steering column (I don't think that I do), what portion of your rebuild advice can be omitted? I just don't want to replace anything that is good (or that may have been replaced already). As a Mustang guy, I am new to T-birds since this is the first one I have owned. But she's a keeper and I want to do the right thing to make the car safe. Also, I have to find out if my Neutral safety switch is in the column or on the tranny. I have read that on my year car it could be one or the other - probably depending on what tranny one has. Thanks again.

 

[NCsilvermink]

If there is no up-and-down play, you can probably leave out the upper bearing retainer (hard-rubber ring that wraps around the upper bearing). If it is slipping out of park, you should replace the shift lever as it will have a groove cut into it. You'll need to drill or punch out the roll pin that holds it in with the right punch and some WD-40.

At the same time, get the lower shift column retainer. It comes as a round blade rubber seal with a small rectangular boss at one side. Look in your engine compartment at the end of the shift column and see if the triangular space is empty. It likely is. This boss with fit in there once the seal is home. Since these were installed when the shift lever was off, you'll cut the ring through the boss with a razor knife, slip the ring around the steering shaft and fit it in the space between the steering column and shift column. This makes a world of difference.

If you get the parts from the Bird Nest, it includes good details instructions. The OEM manual is useless and doesn't even mention the part.

If it still slips out of park, the shift detent plate (a small toothed crescent at the top of the column) is likely worn, but mine was fine. It was the shift level that was worn. To get at this, you'll need to take off the steering wheel, and upper hub (that has the shift indicator PRNDL attached to it). This takes the patience and time I was alluding to. Your friend can do it, but just make sure you get as much slack in the wiring as possible. Ford gave zero slack here.

 

[tbird5866]

To "my66cruiser": If you want our help in finding the neutral safety switch, which transmission do you have?

 

[my66cruiser]

Hi NCSilvermink and Harley Eaton. NC, thank you for your invaluable advice. This will be very helpful. Harley, I was told I have the C6 tranny which I think means the NSS is on the transmission. How can I tell what tranny I have - Cruisomatic or C6? Is there an easy way?

 

[tbird5866]

Other than the code on the data plate, ( code 4 is a C-6) the C-6 has a torqe converter housing which is part of the transmission case whereas the Cruise-O-matic has a bolt on TQ housing. Also, on the C-6 equipped cars, you can see the wiring for the neutral safety switch running on top of the engine or routed along the engine and running along the back to the transmission.

 

[Liveaxle]

C6 pan has a "notch" in it. Cruiseomatic is more square.

 

[my66cruiser]

Shift lever replacement

Hi Folks,

Thanks for your help. I do have the C6 tranny. I have a shift lever question. To replace the shift lever, is it just a matter of popping out the pin, pulling the old lever out, putting the new one into the collar, and reinserting the pin? And has anyone rectified the sloppy shifter problem by ONLY replacing the lever? I was going to replace everything but this may not be necessary in my case:driving. Thanks.

 

[tbird5866]

Replacing the shift lever does not address the sloppy shifter problem. Replacing the shift lever fixes the "dropping out of PARK" problem.

 

[my66cruiser]

Sloppy shifter and slipping out of park-two different things - Hmmm

Hi Harley Eaton,

Thanks for answering. I thought a sloppy shifter and a popping out of park issue were one in the same. My problem is I usually "look for trouble" and think something is the worst case but sometimes a problem can be the best case. So the only issue with my car is that one time I started it and it slipped into reverse. Other than that the shifting is fine. So I will change the shifter lever first, then see how things play out. Then if need be, I will pull the wheel, change the detent plate, and the other related parts. :coolg

 

[tbird5866]

Changing the detent is a bigger job than you imagine. Working on Thunderbirds for over 20 years, I've never seen a bad detent. I think this is because the detent material is much harder than the shift lever material.

 

[my66cruiser]

Detent Plate

Hi Harley, Yes, making the detent plate out of a harder material than the shifter lever was a good design I think. This ensured that the shifter lever (which is easy to replace) is the part that wears out and not the part that is difficult to service. Perhaps both parts should have been made to be more resilient to wear. Once I get around to replacing the shift lever, I will let the forum know if it solved my problem or not. And yes, I am new to T Birds (but not to my first love - Mustangs). So now I have two gals to care about.

 

[my66cruiser]

How I Replaced Shift Lever - 1966

Hi Harley Eaton (and others),

After fixing other stuff on my new old T-Bird, I finally replaced the shifter lever. And like you said, replacing the shift lever DID solve the problem of the shifter moving from Park to Reverse - thank you. I examined my old shift lever and it had the groove worn in it from many years of the previous owners shifting. With the new one in, the positions also seem more defined and less sloppy so that is good. Is it like new? I have no idea...I was not born yet when these cars were new. So I don't know how "tight" the positions should be.

Here's how I replaced my shifter:
1) Hammer out roll pin: With the car in Park and wheel swung to the right some, I hammered the roll pin upward from the bottom. First I sprayed some PB Blaster in the hole. Since my pin was sticking out the bottom slightly, I wacked it flush with a hammer, then I located a bolt to use as a pin punch that JUST fits into the hole of the new shift lever - too loose is no good. Use one that is not tapered at the end - it must be flat at the end so as to butt up against the roll pin and not spread out the pin. With this bolt against the bottom end of the pin, with my right hand hammering upward and my left hand holding the bolt on the pin and also holding the lever down and preventing it from giving when struck with the hammer, this method worked for me though I did hit my fingers a few times with the hammer. Note: you need sufficient force on the hammer to get the pin to move. And watch out for those gauge pods. Also, I moved the seat up to get closer. With the pin out and old shifter still in place, insert an allen key through the holes temporarily so you can shift the car all the way to first (to the right) to facilitate easy hammering in of the pin from the top.

2) Insert new shifter in place: Now that the car is in first, remove the allen key and the old shifter. Insert the new lever exactly in the same position/orientation as the old one. There was no difficulty pushing in the new one far enough. Then I squirted some PB Blaster in the hole and used a flashlight to make sure the shifter hole was aligned with the collar holes. I also used an allen key that fit easily into the holes to kind of force the holes to align but they were already aligned.

3) Hammer in the pin: With my right knee/thigh pressing right on the collar's lower hole (to support everything), I hammered down directly on the pin. This took a while and a bunch of short jackhammer-like hits at first because the underside of the dashboard hinders you a bit. But as the pin goes down, you get more needed leverage.

That's it - done. Sorry so longwinded but I wanted to get in all of the details for everyone. Yes, there may be a more elegant way but this way worked for me. :smash