Sounds great!...for a few seconds

[bowserhound]

Finally got my new Edelbrock intake in, and now the car starts for about 3 seconds and then dies -won't stay running. Checked the points, the plugs, and haven't dove into the carb yet.

When I disassembled, I did not touch the carb (sat in a box for about a month), didn't rotate the camshaft, didn't touch anything on the distrubtor, and everything is back in place where I found it.

I'm going to adjust the fuel mixture when I get home to see if that works, just wanted to see if anyone had any other suggestions. thanks

 

[phjohnso]

well I don't know what the problem can be but check the dist cap and or replace it. I had a car sit in the garage for a year and a half once because it never started - I would try it every few months then one day I replaced the cap and she fired right up. I was so mad at myself for wasting all that time. At least check that out for an option.

sincerely

pj

 

[T-wheel]

check the plug wires agree with the firing order...

fuel quantity?

 

[dans65]

Sounds like a vacumn problem. You obviously have fuel and spark else it wouldnt start at all. If car was running fine before the replacement intake thats where I would start. If you start making adjustments to areas you hadnt messed with it will probably end up worse

 

[bowserhound]

I have checked the firing order and plugs about 10 times at least now, and I have verified that fuel is being delivered to the carb. I'm probably going to go get a new dist. cap this weekend to try that since it is a cheap quick thing.

As far as the vaccuum goes, where would you suggest I start looking Dan? I'm about 90% certain all the hoses went back to their original place, however I had to trim a few due to cracking. Not much, maybe a inch or a few here and there. I'll go see what the manual has to say about it.

Thanks!

 

[bowserhound]

On page 8-7 of the manual it says to run the engine at 1200 RPM for X amount of minutes before perfroming a vaccuum test. I don't think it will work for me since the car won't even run for more than 5 seconds. It sounded like the vaccuum test is mostly for performance issues, and most of the symptoms can be fixed with carburator adjustments.

I'm fairly certain the intake is air tight, and there is absolutely no sign of any type of fluids leaking from anywhere.

 

[dans65]

I still would question making adjustment to items that you had working fine in the first place. I had an Edelbrock intake on one we got rid of this past spring and it ended up getting an edelbrock carb as well since the original carb would never run right, the guy I got the car from said it was a carb problem from before though so different scenario than you. He also told me that he had a heck of a time with the intake since going from cast to alluminum. Just random thoughts and will be curious to hear what cures it.

 

[bowserhound]

The only rough part I had with the alluminum intake is that some of the ports are in different locations for fittings, which got pretty interesting. And it sits about about 3 inches higher than the stock one.

 

[boaterbob]

Sounds like dirt in the carb. Runs till the dirt clogs the jets then stops and the dirt drops back down. The carb may be getting gas but not the engine. Could start it and let someone pour a little gas down the carb to see if it keeps running or do it with small shots of starting fluid for a test

 

[bowserhound]

I poured a little gas down the carb already and it had virtually no effect. Same thing. I was out of town all weekend, but I'm going to try a few things this week including a new dist. cap and I will let you all know if anything happens. thanks.

 

[Joe Vandatta]

Emediately on shut down, ck. for voltage at the ign. lead to coil. No votage --no go

 

[tbird5866]

Sounds like you might be getting ignition power while you crank and no power when you move the key back to the "run" position. Problem would be ignition switch or ignition/resister wire.

 

[Joe Vandatta]

You can ck. this by connecting a jumper wire from the positive bat pole to the ign. terminal of the coil. Mind you, this is just for a test. If it runs now you know where the problem is.

 

[bowserhound]

I take a look at the coil when I get home today, thanks guys

 

[bowserhound]

Well a new dist. cap didn't solve the problem. The coil appears normal -I checked all wires and they all look sturdy. Haven't performed the coil to battery test yet. Rechecked the manifold torque, and indeed I have a good seal around it as well.

Does anyone have a vacuum hose diagram by any chance? I'm only about 90% sure they are all in the correct locations. Don't know if it would be a live or die matter in my situation.

Also, does anyone have a spare connecting ring that holds the accelerator rod into the accelerator bracket on the intake? I think it is part # 353862-S.

Thanks again, my struggle continues.

 

[Joe Vandatta]

The bat. to coil test is very quick and easy -- let us know when you make it.
Where is Niles Ca. Can't find it on the map.

 

[Joe Vandatta]

test

The bat. to coil is a quick and easy test -- let us know when you make it.
Where is Niles, Ca. Can't find it on the map.

 

[bowserhound]

It's in Fremont, I'm sure you know where that is Joe.

I was going to do the test yesterday but couldn't find any wire around the garage for some reason. I'm picking some up on the way home today.

 

[boaterbob]

Don't know if the car would even run at all, But if you had the coil off could you have reversed the two wires?

 

[bowserhound]

Bob, When I removed the coil from the intake, I just moved it to the side. The only wire removal was the clip that attaches to the distributor wires.

Although, I wonder if the ground wire from the ignition to the coil is having issues with the alluminum manifold? Maybe I should run the ground wire to the frame? It's currently attched to the coil bracket, which isn't that big. Don't know if the cast iron manifold had better grounding capabilities.