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UncleDougie

Active member
Joined
Apr 23, 2010
Messages
27
Location
Twenty miles SW of Chicago
:lurk
I brought home my 66 Landau on Saturday. First things first; the steering wheel was tied down tooo tight in a previous towing operation and now the wheel moves fore and aft about an inch and is kind of hanging there. No longer communicating with the front wheels either.The hub with the emblem is still attached; thats the first question: how do I remove the outer hub with the emblem? I need to get in there to assess the damage.

Thanks in advance for the assist on the first of many questions!
 
(I have never understood left and right when a person is referring to rotation. I always think clockwise and counterclockwise.) If the steering wheel moves up and down and does not connect, I expect the flexible joint at the gearbox is broken.
 
Fun!

My granddaughter was looking over my shoulder and she said "lefty-loosey, righty-tighty Grampa" :yesnod

You are correct Mr Eaton. I could see the broken bits on the coupling down there under the master cylinder. How much fun is that going to be?

And so begins the adventure.
 
I'm thinking you can slide the steering shaft upward (toward the driver) to give you room to install another coupling. Remove the steering wheel, you should find a snap-ring to remove to allow this movement.
 
Not a bad job, part is available. Takes about 45min, but I am sloooow as all my stuff is painted, plated and polished so I am extra careful.

You should be able to so it easily. If I remember the only trick was a 12 sided socket as mine had a 12sided bolt.
 
if you are willing, you can remove the fender and the under-cover and slide your hand from the side to access the rag-bolts. also, you can use a flexi-joint on your extension bars (need like 4 long ones) and you can access the bolt from the passenger side to remove that 12 point bolt. took me 15 minutes to accomplish the replacement after removing the fender.
 
Not This Time

I think I will just try it from the top. Have plenty of extensions , universals etc. Besides, my car has a lot of rust (i have only had her for a week) and I would be afraid to remove the fender tight now.
 
k. good luck. Just turn the steering wheel until the bolt is facing the passenger side about 11 o'clock (looking at it from the front of engine) and get them extensions out. other thing is you can remove the booster (no need to remove brake lines) in order to get to the rag joint. helps when trying to change out the PS lines also if anyone has big arms/hands that can't wiggle through.
 
Couple of Things:

I managed to remove the flexible coupling and the steering shaft. The upper bearing was trashed and I cannot tell if the plastic cone is down in the tube or not. I appreciate the input on the coupling, came out fairly easy.

While I was under there I noticed that my Bird has a two-barrel carb?!?!? I thought the Z code meant four-barrel; now I am confused.

One more question; I bought a new coil and it is marked "dist" and "bat" . I know what those are but the new one is marked "+" and "-". Is the "+" same as "bat"?

Thanks in advance for the help!
 
Carb may have been swapped at some time... someone trying to save gas? I don't know. Z= 4barrel.

- = dist black wire and tach if you have one
+ = coil power and dist positive wire

hope this helps
 
It looks like the 390 and the VIN has the "Z" code.

The carb and the manifold both look original. The manifold is the same blue as the valve covers and looks old/original.

Wouldnt the intake manifold have to be swapped as well (to use a 2-barrel carb)?
 
remember that the carb may have been stock to the previous owner...but someone swapped it years ago if you say it looks right (i.e. not 2 year old holley carb, etc.)

As I recall, you can put a 2 barrel carb on that manifold BUT you can't put a 4 barrel on a stock 2 barrel manidold on some vehicles due to the throttle butterfly not being able to open at full throttle (non vehicle specific comment).

that carb was swapped.
 
Once I am able to steer the car I will get her running. Once I get her running I will put new carb on the wish list.

It must be a close match to the four-barrel because all the linkages and kickdown etc all look perfect.

And thank you for clarifying the coil terminal I.D.


The adventure continues......
 

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