Frame-off restoration dilemma

[ashmatk2000]

Hello folks. I've been reading all the posts about frame-off preparation (which are great), but I'm still concerned.

Here's my situation: I have a 57 E bird with rusted rockers (inner and outer) and floor braces. I read everywhere that I should do "structural" work before removing the body from the frame. But how can you do the work I need with the body on given that the floor braces pass over the frame? and is it safe for me to brace the body and lift it off the frame with trashed rockers and braces. I'd hate to lift the body and never be able to have it fit the frame again. I think the E bird is worth the effort, but I'm hesistant to take on the challenge. Maybe just a cosmetic restoration is in order, and leave the rusty underbody? (Hate that idea) Any advice or comments would be appreciated. Thanks.

P.S. As the left fender had been damaged, the prior owner installed some home-made looking angle to support the clutch rod/bracket assembly just above the frame and near the fender. It actually bolts to the frame. If anyone could share a photo of this side (driver) of the lower engine compartment, I'd be very greatful. (So I can see what it's sposed to look like) Thanks again.

 

[nomadbird]

I think most folks who have done body off restorations would advise you to replace at least the inner and outer rocker panels before removing the body from the frame. Once you have those replaced and you have a "good sound door opening", then do all your bracing and replace the required floor pans, mounts, gussets, etc off the frame.

Regarding the clutch mechanism: are you sure it's not stock? I had a new "C" Bird, and the clutch linkage was not all that impressive looking. I'll look around and see if I can steer you toward any pictures/diagrams of what it is supposed to look like.

Tom

 

[Ts & As]

If you have the fat Blue 1957 Ford Car & Thunderbird Shop Manual Section 3-4 on Page 190 gives a comprehensive blow apart view of the clutch and linkage assembly and mounting hardware. Be glad to copy and fax it to you if you don't have the manual - but you really should get one if you are going into the car that deep. E-mail is [email protected]

Also when I took my body off - I had no floors left at all - I kept the doors on and lashed them together so they would not pop open. Then I made a six point chain attachment two to the body bolts in trunk two to the body bolts at firewall and two to the bolts at the radiator front cross member. Lifted up w/ chain hoist and built wooden saftey stands. Then I could access the entire underside unobstructed and began to cut. I agree with Nomadbird Tom - make sure you have good rockers before you lift.

Tom R
57 Dusk Rose

 

[Brian]

Me too! I had a front end, back end, and nothing in the middle.

I did the standard "x" bracing at the doors, and similar cockpit bracing as above - lifted the body off with an eye hook at the center of the cockpit. It hung by a chain almost perfectly balanced.

Once the rockers were fitted in, the doors were remounted, and everything aligned from rockers to under the floor. (I also replaced the rear fenders).

That being said, the body has not been remounted to the frame yet, but I'm optimistic everything will realign.

 

[ashmatk2000]

Thanks for all the advice re: the frame-off bracing. I'll take your advice and have the rockers repaired first. I do have a couple more questions:

1. I purchased some replacement outer rockers. What arrived are pieces that appear to have a flat bevelled exterior, and don't look like the slightly curved pieces that are on the car. Has anyone else dealt with this? Did I buy some poor outer rocker replacments? Are you sposed to bend the rocker panels to achieve the curve? Where did you folks find outer rockers of the correct shape?

2. Re: the clutch - What is in my T-bird looks exactly like the setup for the standard car clutch setup as shown in the big, blue 1957 ford shop manual - and looks nothing like the assembly shown in the Thunderbird parts manuals and T-bird catalogs (larry's, etc.) that I have. What I have has the equilizer rod, the split bushings, etc. Do I have the correct setup for a t-bird or for a passenger car that someone has installed? Any advice would again be appreciated.

Thanks folks.

 

[Brian]

Can't speak to the clutch issue yet.

Bought my rockers from Ford. Where'd you get yours from?

You might call Custom Autocraft 631-862-7469, who has quality body parts.

Brian

 

[Brian]

I need to clarify my earlier post: the rockers were installed while the body was on the frame.

The floor panels were installed while on the frame, stitched in place, aligned with stiffeners aligned in relation to the mounting holes and rockers (what was left of them).

Then the rockers are installed in relation to the floor pans and fenders.

Then the body on the spit has all of the welding done full.

 

[nomadbird]

I really gotta tip my hat to you guys who resurrect all those rusty buggys. I feel like a rookie by not having your experience with panel replacement.

Tom

 

[Ts & As]

Ashmatk2000

It almost seams that you are looking at the inner rockers not the outers - did they send you the corrcet part number. If you need a good source for T-bird sheetmetal - let me know - I have to look up the name but they are located in North Carolina and everything that I bought from them fit perfectly with NO modifications.

Tom R
57 Dusk Rose

Tom D

Body panel replacement is the least fun part of this restoration work from my perspective. And we are supposed to be having fun .... right? If you have a non-rotted starting point you are WAY ahead of the game. In New Jersey - we fix all of cars with the road salt!

Tom R

 

[ashmatk2000]

Tom, Thanks I am very interested in learning your contact for panels. Over the weekend, I decided to pull the engine and trans. Easy right? Wrong. Apparently the prior owner elected to install an aftermarket hurst shifter. To install the shifter, the guy cut out the entire hump of the floor and bolted the shifter to the trans from above so I can't get at it from underneath. The panel for the hump is not a t-bird part and has been installed with about 100 sheet metal screws and coated top and bottom with heavy undercoating. Now I can't get the engine and trans out without first removing the car floor. Who in their right mind would butcher up a t-bird to install a shifter, such that you can't remove the engine without first removing the floor of the car? I'd like to find that guy so I can pop him in the nose. Anywho, I'm now in the market for rockers AND a floor. Sheesh! Thanks for any info. I think I'll need a few more Coronas to get through this job.

Ken Lambert, Las Vegas
57 Gray E bird (All screwed up)

 

[Ts & As]

Ken

Ya gotta say "what was he thinkin"? Probably he daid - "I am going to make this modification just to get the next guy who owns this car"!

Mine wasn't sooooo bad - the previous owner installed an exhaust system made out of 1 3/4 galvenized thredded pipe - must have been a plumber.

I actually found my receipts and the parts catalog for the sheet metal - the parts were from:

Classic Sheet Metal
Robert Jones
4010A Hartley St.
Charlotte NC 28206

800-776-4040
704-596-5186
Fax 704-596-3895

Their catalog states on the outer rockers " ... ha sthe correct curve at the outside and includes he original drain holes". (Part # 2557-R & L)

There front floor pans were perfect and stamped correctly. (Part # 4557-R & L)

Hope that helps

Tom