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Yes I have taken the dash out a few times now. All I need to do though is get to those two hex bolts. I usually take the front seat out so I can get underneath the dash. Taking out the console driver side is no problem and I think it is the only way I can get to those bolts. Wondering if I can...

Thanks Steve. I think you’re right. The problem is in the adjustment right behind the dash. I posted Above what I found In the shop manual. The hex nuts or bolts can be loosened to free up the travel of the swing away. I just put the dash back together, UGH. so now I have to take it apart to get...

Just found in the shop manual section 3-22 fig 11 that there is an adjustment to loosen the track sliding effort by loosening the two hex head bolts and adjusting them accordingly. Hopefully this will loosen the travel on the swing away column. The book says 10 lbs of pressure required for a...

OK thanks for the input. However, it seems like it’s tight at the bottom of the column where it goes through to the firewall. I have had the mechanism out right behind the dash and that seems to be working smoothly. I am wondering if it is tight at the bottom closer to the firewall. Just a...

Correction, I’m at romans324

Thanks Terry. Yes the washer motor was bad. Didn’t know about the little switch until I pulled the dash out fixing AC problems. I was not aware that it runs in the event that the switch slips away from its housing. I will double check that amount to make sure it stays in. Thanks again, Jim @ROM324

Ok thanks. I’ll try that. Jim

I tried to take this comment below off since it’s in the previous thread but it wouldn’t let me erase it. Sorry. ( I should Clarify that the radio switches from am to fm by pushing one of the push buttons)

My AM/FM radio doesn’t switch between am and fm all the way. Sort of in between. Stays tuned to am though. Has anyone been able to fix this problem. I should Clarify that the radio switches from am to fm by pushing one of the push buttons.Thanks. Jim

I was able To secure the right side mirror by putting a nut under each screw (2) which made the mirror mount rock solid. The usual crush nuts used from the outside are never that tight to my liking. I took Them out and used a bolt and nut instead. Now the mirror will tighten and does not wobble...

Thanks Montana T-bird. Just realized you were answering a question from the previous person trying to help. Hope all has worked out for you. Keep pressing on with these old birds.

Now to another problem. One of my fuses that operates the washer motor is blowing out constantly and the washer motor is hot as a firecracker. Now to diagnose this problem. Any help would be appreciated.

Well thank you all for the advice. I just found the problem with my gauges grounding out on my 65 bird. The CVR was not grounded to the chassis behind the dash. Just floating there. When I grounded it to the metal dash all the gauges worked. Hallelujah

I have a 65 right side passenger mirror to install and can’t get the mirror to stop wobbling. Seems the screw that holds the mirror to its support is not very well-designed. Any help would be appreciated.

Here is a case of not paying attention to my own post. I asked this question back in January 2017 and without looking answered my own question a year and three months later. LOL. It pays to pay attention. How strange was this. Jim

Don’t know if this is relevant for you now but in 1959 the fully automatic Top was offered in the later models of that year. I have a 59 with an early build date and is not fully automatic. Depends on when your car was built.

I have My combo fuel and temp gauge out of my 59 and want to test it. How should I do This without it hooked up to the cvr which I understand Only sends 5 or 6 volts to the gauge. Don’t want to send 12 volts and cook the gauge. Thanks Jim

If it’s a 430 ci in motor there will be a letter J in the first didget of the serial number and not an H

Not sure who Montana is?? But his reply to my question got on my log in reply space??. I’m still looking for the problem with my 1965 Tbird gauges all moving to the full right position upon ignition. I am Checking the fuse location 12 on the fuse panel today as one suggested. . Maybe it grounded...

My 65 Tbird gauges are all grounding out to the right of the gauges except the amp gauge which still works. I was Removing the safety convenient panel when the gauges all moved to the right when ignition is turned on. Prior to that all the gauges worked fine. Need help troubleshooting. Thanks. Jim.