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I'd say if it starts and charges pretty well, keep the 6v, particularly if you don't drive it, and aren't putting accessories on it. You get in trouble with 6v when you want to upgrade the radio, add AC, etc. That, and the ability to run smaller wire over longer distances was probably the main...

It was ridiculously easy. I think those who say it's so bad have never tried it (or own a trim shop). As to color, I don't know. According to this site, there are options. http://www.worlduph.com/worlduph/SAMPLES/stfcanvas.htm. I'd call EZ-on in Iva, SC and ask them.

Just recovered my own sta-fast top. VERY easy process, about 3 hours. I highly recommend that anyone reasonably mechanical buy a staple gun and do it themselves. It's perfectly straight, and didn't cost me $600.

A couple of suggestions: 1. Pick your intent now. Serious modification, Driver, Reasonable restoration, or authentic. The starting point you choose has HUGE price considerations based on this. There are obviously gray areas between the types. 2. Find someone who has done it, and spend some...

Yes, I've always used the Rotella T. A good friend in Houston was an engineer with both Shell and Texaco, specifically in lubricants for 25 years. He now can't stand Shell as a company, but swears it's the only thing to use.

Rotella 15-40 is a good choice.

Rich- RE: Brake Switch. If you didn't find the switch (round, 2 leads coming off of it), then there's probably a plug in it's place. It's in a brass block that takes input from the master and diverts it front and rear. If you're not showing the car, I'd install CASCO's electric/mechanical...

If you could vacuum most of that crap out, and then drill some strategically placed holes, it'd be worth spraying a healthy dose of POR15 in there for most owners...frame off or no.

Tom- Thanks, but I've got an original top. Sometimes I'm not sure if that's actually a good thing or a bad thing, but it's what I've got. Stephen.

I looked this weekend, and it's the same 3M adhesive, the box just says black. I think I got it at Advance Auto. On a similar note, I found that to get the thing not to leak at the dogleg, the weatherstrip mounts in such a way that the edges don't all flush up to the body...it leaves a little...

Good morning, guys. Thanks for the replies. That's the one drawback to this site, is that typically the traffic is much less than that on the others I frequent. 1. Dimensions. Assume the window is raised. I'm looking for between the window, at it's rear edge, and the vertical piece of top...

Soft top needs recovering, last guy did a crappy job, and used white vinyl. 2 questions: 1. Where the window meets the frame toward the rear...how much space is between the window and that vertical rail? 2. How hard is it to recover (Stayfast)? I can't get anyone to touch it here for less...

Playdough does work well. Also, once it's stuck, you can take lipstick and put it on the weatherstrip at the dogleg. It'll leave a mark on the body where it hits, and won't mark where there's no contact. This works better in this area than paper or a dollar because leaks are often smaller in...

Thanks, guys. I'll let you know what happens.

I'm using repro rubber, with newly repinned hinges. Without rubber, the doors fit PERFECTLY (with the lock striker adjusted correctly, of course). Once I put the rubber on, the door became hard to close, and the door sticks out about 3/16" at the rear edge. All of the gaps are equal all the...

This is going to sound nutty, and I don't remember the number, but I went to NAPA and found a very small, round one from a tractor that fit between the raised circular part at the center (barely outside the carb) and the top.

Thanks. I was hoping you would say to shave the visible side, so I wouldn't have to take things apart again. This is a repro type rubber, pretty soft, but I guess just not soft enough, or a bit too thick. So if I'm understanding correctly, you shave off the backside, where it glues to the...

When the doors are not weatherstripped, they fit perfectly. Once they have the stripping installed, the doors stay flared out about 1/8". What's the solution for this? Before painting, I just installed the stripping at the dogleg and door latch to prevent leaks, and removed the rest, but I...