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on a 12V system, 3v should give you 1/2 thank. You're reading low.

Instructions were for 12V.

Put two D cells end to end with a lead to each post on the gauge. It should read 1/2. If it doesn't, reverse the leads. Then try again. If it still doesn't, gauge is broken. Stephen.

Remove the hub cap. There will be 3 lug nuts holding the wheel on the cont'l kit ass'y. Remove them, and take the wheel and it's fiberglass cover off as a unit, lay them flat on the ground (blanket useful to prevent scratching). There's a spring on the bottom to hold the "donut" closed...

To get the best instructions for valve lash adjustment, goto Google, and search for valve lash Walt. You'll get a good instruction.

I had compression in the 80's when I bought the thing, and after setting valves had 130. A valve job later and I've got 160.

Have you checked the valves yet? Low compression can easily be caused by horked up valve lash.

If the plugs and wires are new, I'd definitely look to the valve settings. Did you take a vacuum reading?

Wires and plugs would be my bet, followed by very poor valve lash on one or more cylinders. Have you tried pulling wires from the distributor one at a time to see which one doesn't affect a change?

Does it ping, start missing, act like it's starving? What's the nature of the poor running?

Jim- You said "with 55 doors", I thought 55 & 56 were the same door, but I'm relatively new to body work. Also noticed you've got a 2bbl. If you ever decide to change to a 4, and want "original" I've got an intake, 6 month rebuild carb, tach drive distributor, cable, AND tach guts that have...

Any of you guys have one of these things? I just happened into one, and want some direction before I break it.

Also, if you're not looking to be original, you can buy Omron, P&B, or any other relay in just about any configuration. I've not looked at how the bird's relays function, but I'm absolutely certain that you can find a cheap, modern relay to do the trick.

Then you have to realign because the weight will affect how it hangs, right? If they hang well now, I'd take a sharpie or something and draw out where the hing hits the door now. Then, putting it back is just aligning the hinge with your marks. That said, can't you get an EZ-out on the bolt...

@ 6-01 I feel your pain on headroom and legroom. I took a non power seat, put it to the floor as best I could (no washers, no nothing), and redrilled new holes a slight bit further back, to where the seat BARELY brushes the soft top when stowed. This helped the legroom. Also on legroom...

Glad it worked out. Don's a "one man shop" who fabs several parts for the supply houses. Probably the most known are the smaller dia water pump pulleys and alternator kits. Works out of his garage. Has ALL KINDS of crap in his garage, such that I'm not sure how he works! Had what looked...

Why, I got, but HOW did you get an S belt in the car?!?!?!?!?

RED, BABY!!!!

I was on a business trip to Dallas a few weeks ago, and went by Don Hyde's shop in Murphy. Fordcraft I believe is the name. Happened to notice he had several hanging on pegs in his garage.

If authenticity to the dataplate isn't what you're doing anyways, black with red interior is, in my opinion, the biggest head turner of the bunch.