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I haven't seen or heard of aftermarket braces for these cars. (Which doesn't mean they don't exist.) The stock units have provisions for clips and hangers that will help clean up the engine bay. Any supplier of used t-bird parts should be able to set you up. Painted up and installed, they'll...

Actually, this is a common question and there are many options to choose from. Chances are the op found the answer on another site, like this one: Dual Bowl Master Cylinder... - Vintage Thunderbird Club International ~Steve

I replaced the hoses on my car this year. It's not an apples-to-apples comparison (I have a 64 without A/C), but I bought a replacement reproduction. Side by side, the old and new hoses were the same length, but upon installation, the new hose was ungainly and hard to get routed correctly. (It...

I've never seen any upgrades or replacements for the bearings, bushings or the detente plate, though I've read that using a mig welder to fix the inevitable notch in the shift lever will lengthen its life. The metal from the weld is much harder than the original or the reproductions. ~Steve

The detente plates are pretty sturdy units. I've discovered that the replacement shift levers, though, are made from even softer metal than the originals. If you have a mig welder (or have access to a welding shop), it's better to weld up the groove in the lever rather than replace with a...

I'm not certain what you mean by an "economy" ratio. Do you mean you have the original rear end still in the car, or has someone swapped out the gears once already? (My 'Bird gets 8 mpg with the factory ratio!) I've never heard of anyone doing this with a T-Bird, as most people consider these...

If it won't turn over at all, it's most likely the starting system. I'd check the battery, cables, ground, solenoid and starter. All these are prone to failure if the car has been sitting a while. If they all check out as good, pull the plugs and trying turning the motor over by hand very...

Are you saying that the engine won't turn over at all? Oil fouling is a symptom of engine wear, but shouldn't cause of hard starting unless the wear is severe. A compression test would help to diagnose (if the motor spins!), but I would be ok with readings as low as 140 or so. The noise &...

Air shocks are generally not recommended for these cars--the mount points aren't designed to handle that kind of load. If the car is sagging in the back, it's probably worn springs. Re-arching or replacing is the best solution. ~Steve

Sounds like you have multiple issues here, most of them difficult to diagnose from a distance. The Osborn manuals--with a strong magnifying glass--will give the the proper wire colors. (Assuming the new kit follows factory spec, which may not be the case.) I can't speak to the NSS, as my 64 may...

Fantastic write-up Terry. I hadn't even considered worn hinges when looking at the alignment problems on my doors--this is something I'll definitely be doing soon. ~Steve

Fords of this era don't have a serial number or VIN stamped anywhere on the motor. What they do have is a casting date (should be cast into the bottom of the engine below the oil filter adapter) and an assembly date (stamped into a pad towards the front of the engine, I believe on the driver's...

Here are some photos I took a few years back when I did this job: http://thunderbird.seebart.org/photo-journals/steeringcolumnandshifter ~Steve

A weak shifter is likely caused by more things than a worn shift lever. Typically, the detente plate is also worn, as is the upper bearing. The lower bushing is frequently missing in these cases, too. To make the shifter safe again, it's almost always necessary to pull the column and replace...

Sounds like you might have picked up a 64 style amp gauge.

The heater box is right behind the metal panel on the passenger side--no room there for a stereo. If your car is not A/C equipped, there's a ton of room behind the fascia above the radio where the A/C vents would normally be. You'll have to cut a panel to do this, of course. I had a couple of...

I can double-check later today, but if memory serves, the primary butterflies can just flop around if the rod tension is removed. I have an Edelbrock, which doesn't accept the original Ford linkage at the carb. The clip Ford used originally is strong and secure--it can't really come apart. This...

Thanks, this clarifies the issue. On my car, which is close to stock, I have to lengthen that threaded rod to lower the pedal height. ~Steve

I am still amazed at how little room there is to work with on these big cars. Pulling the bracket is certainly worth a try. With aftermarket parts, though, I would start with a call to the manufacturer. It's not uncommon for something like this to require some modification or fabrication to...

I don't run a 4100. (I have an Edelbrock.) But I did return my car to the factory setup for the throttle and return spring. Somewhere along the way, this gets taken apart and put back together with some of the pieces missing. I have a 64, so I was missing part 9B853, shown in this diagram: I...