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Old 07-29-2003, 09:23 PM
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Seriously, the tranny in our cars is a 4r70w.

If you want, check out some of the Tech Articles over at www.tccoa.com.

Here is a copy and paste from one of them;

All AOD, AODE and 4R70W
Difference:
You are probably asking yourself what the difference is between them. Actually, the AODE and 4R70W are electronically controlled. The difference between these 2 are:


Gear ratios, the 4R70W has the wide ratio gears whereas the AOD-E doesn't.

4R70W ratios are: (1st) 2.84, (2nd) 1.55, (3rd) 1.00, (OD) .7
AODE ratios are: (1st) 2.40, (2nd) 1.40, (3rd) 1.00, (OD) .67


The 4R70W has a larger diameter slip yoke on the driveshaft.

The 4R70W has a differennt extension housing.

The 4R70W uses better output shaft material.


4R70W is a flavor of AODE. The W in 4R70W stands for wide, as in wide ratio between first and second gear. First and second gear are a little lower in the 4R70W than in the the Std AODE.


Known Problems:
The shudder during 3-4 lockup is a breakdown of the oil-friction interface at the clutch in the converter. This breakdown is caused by oil type, temperature (put on a cooler), and energy (or calibration). This breakdown causes the shudder (if you really want to get technical I can describe exactly what happens).

For the sake of your car you should get the cooler, mercon V and new calibration that is recommended in the TSB. With all 3 of these, you will most likely not get shudder again.

Reverse shudder is an alignment problem with the gear set. The gear set is aligned on 3 bushings. These 3 will "fight" each other causing a light throttle shudder. This doesn't hurt anything, and usually goes away with miles.

The older torque converters (trans's built before 10/94) or Mark 8's and Mustangs up to '97, are a less "optimal" design. The converters built after this point are good. The difference is the stiffness of the lock up plate and the radius of the friction material.


Tips:
Anyone who owns a AOD, AODE or 4R70W transmission it is very important that you replace your 1-2 accumulator ASAP! They like to go bad. It was part of a TBS and thus not required by Ford to recall all AOD and AODE transmissions.

Reason: Aluminum style wears out the case and burns up the 2nd clutch. 1-2 accumulator piston changed from aluminum to molded rubber. (Updated molded rubber style) F7AZ-7F251-AA. (See picture)

Recommendation: Always update to the rubber accumulator. If the bore is worn in your case you can salvage it by Scothbriting the bore real good and installing the rubber piston.
Only after 40K on my transmission visable signs of wear showed on the aluminum acvisibleor and bore it fits into. If not replaced a rebuild or worse a new case would have been necessary. You do not have to remove the valve body to access the 1-2 accumulator. After you remove the transmission pan the accumulator is held in place via a snap ring in the drivers side upper corner of the case. I purchased the new Ford accumulator for under $20.00. (1-2 $7; 3-4 $5)

Rich Thompson was working on a technical article that lists the updated parts and heavy duty parts (Ford and Aftermarket) for the AOD and 4R70W repairs/rebuilds. Click here for more info and tranny help articles.
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