You may wish to consider this as an option, since it is less invasive to your car.
Here is what I learned from when I changed my hinge pin bushings.
Ford Part numbers;
Pins: D9ZZ-6643030-AA
Bushings: D9OZ-6522841-C
Striker plate: F3SZ-6322008-A
HELP Brand part numbers (AutoZone, PepBoys)
Pin & Bushing HELP Kit p/n 38410
Door Striker Bolt HELP p/n 38445
Roller Pin HELP p/n 38350
1. If you have never replaced the bushings since the car was new, you may
consider replacing the hinge too. Mine was so worn, that the bushing was
completely worn through, and the pin had elongated the hole in the hinge
plate. I used a 15/32 dia. drill bit, and opened up the hole, but the bushing
fits in there just a hair loose.
2. In spite of this amount of wear, the upper hinge bushings had no play in
them, so I am going to leave them alone.
3. When cutting the hinge pin, cut it closer to the bottom bushing, than the
top. You can then take a center punch, or drift pin, and knock out the lower
piece of the pin, from above. Then come up through the bottom of the lower
hole, and knock out the top piece of the pin. The original pin has some
knurling on it, and does not come out easily.
4. On my car, it was not necessary to make scribe marks, as it was obvious
where the hinge plate was. The plate wears into the paint enough to make its'
own marks.
5. For removing the door, I built a wooden cradle to support the bottom of
the door in two places. I made it the same height as the bottom of the door,
and put a couple of notches in it to keep the door from falling off. Use a
trolley jack to lift the car up slightly, so that you can slide the cradle
under the door. Put shop rags between the door and cradle, to protect the
paint. You can then slide the door away from the car, and tilt it forward, so
it leans against the back edge of the fender. I then propped the door in
place with a broom handle.
6. When installing the lower hinge pin, do not push it all the way down.
Leave it about 1/2" high. so that you can get the lower hinge bolt back in,
and tightened. Then you can tap it the rest of the way down.
Tools required:
13mm combination box wrench, Sawz-all with metal cutting blade, T50 torx head
bit (for striker plate), trolley jack.
It took me about 1 hour to do the total job, including making the support
cradle.
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