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I should have added if you use a volt meter to check for voltage drop to the coil that the key needs to be on with the system loaded to test where any drop occurs. Testing a complete open circuit will tell you where total lose of continuity but if the system has some continuity (too much resistance but still making a complete circuit) the system has to have a load on it for the voltage drop test to be accurate. By loaded I mean a either the negative side of the coil must be grounded by the points or pertronics OR you can ground the coil for the duration of the test but I don't recommend doing it for more than a few minutes at a time as the coil will overheat if decent voltage is getting to it. Loaded your 7 volts may be a tad low but not by much. The idea is that once the charging system takes over and the coil is pulsing your average voltage across the resistance wire with the engine running will probably be around 10 - 11 volts (measured at the posiitve post of the coil). I am sorry about the quality of repair from your auto electric shops. Gives my business a black eye. You need to find an old guy like me who started life on these systems. If I had your car in front of me this would be a 15 minute diagnosis.
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