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Hi 65BLUBIRD,
My hazards did not work so I came up with this solution because the old hazard relays in my trunk were bad and I did not want to spend about $40.00 each for the original style relays which are both costly and unreliable. My car is not all original so I can experiement with new solutions. But if your car is a totally original car and you want to keep it that way, then you'd have to go with the original style relays. the Birdsnest in Oregon has them as do others. My hazard switch (and its light) works fine (and it is located in the overhead console on my car). My problem was bad relays - corroded and open coils mostly was the problem. Yours, too, could be bad relays, poor ground connection to chassis from relays, or non-functional flasher unit. Easy to change out the relays in the trunk as they all plug in via the attached harnesses and ground to the chassis. But changing the flasher too makes sense. Make sure you get the right ones for your car - I think some have three wires and others have four I think. Also, I fixed my sequential signals first, then the brake lights, and then the emergency flashers. As far as a meter, I use a $12.00 digital meter (I think Tenma is the brand). You can get these at any Autoparts store or online. All you need is to use the DC voltmeter to make sure you are getting 12V where you should be. Once you have the relays out, you can use the resistance setting of the meter to see if the relay coil is open. If it is open, you will read OL (overload) or something similar. My solution requires that you cut the old harnesses from the old relays and solder them to the new sockets as shown in my schematic. But don't do this if you are not comformtable with it. It is pretty straightforward though. I would start at the relays in the trunk, and make sure you are getting voltage back there. If you are, then the relays could be bad. Good luck.
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